[willieC]

Washer does everything except spin. Goes through all the cycles, you can hear the motor when it is in the spin cycle but no spin. When you lift the lid - during any cycle - it stops. Suggestions? Belt? Motor?

[willieC]

I replaced the motot coupler assembly. It needed it, but that wasn't the problem. Checked the lid switch and that isn't the problem. During the spn cycle the part directly on the top of the motor - don't know yet what part it is - spins like mad, but the drum does not.

[bettyboop]

You either have oil on the part your talking about(spin clutch), or clutch lining is worn out, to check it out, take bolt out of agitator, un hook wiring from motor, remove pump hoses, remove 3 trans bolts, you can leave motor & pump on trans and just pull out. pinch the clutch lining with plyers and remove lining. look at it and see if worn down to the rivets, or soaked in oil, if so clean & replaceBettyboop

[willieC]

Found a piece of broken plastic under the driver. It is the "finger" of the clutch. I haven't taken everything apart again yet. Two questions. Looking at the parts this piece is part of an entire clutch assembly. Does the entire assembly need replaced or can I just replace the plastic "finger" piece? Second question, does the tub and everything need to be taken out to do this, as one instruction I read says? Hope I get an answer before I tear it apart!

[willieC]

For those with same problems here's what I found. Though the motor coupler looked bad and had all the signs of being the problem (black powder under the dryer) that wasn't it. My problem was the clutch. You can access this without removing the drum, but you have to take the agitator out as the bolt that holds that in place holds the trasnmission in place. After removing that, I laid the washer on it's back for much easier access. Removed the motor, got to the transmisssion and pulled it out. The clutch is attached to the transmisssion. Up on the bottom of the washer is a plastic piece that is what makes the clutch do it's thing. This was broken. Here is a good picture of what it looks like. The only photo on this page.

Direct drive washer wont spin and how to test this problem, brake, clutch, Kenmore Whirlpool Inglis

You can't just buy the plastic piece you have to buy the entire clutch assembly. As I had it, I replaced the entire clutch.

Here is a great sight that gives a terrific step by step process of how to replace this part - and anything in between, including taking the cabinet off. It doesn't explain how to replace the motor coupling but it is in the picture that says "Remove Motor Mouting Plate". It is the black and white pieces on the end of the motor, and the white piece in the center of the mounting plate. They are slipped in place with out any fastners. Very easy to replace. As they are rubber they apparantly fail regularly. Though ours lasted nearly 11 years. It says to take the drum out. Again - this wasn't necessary.

American A/C & Appliance

Good luck. This cost us $54 with both repairs. And all the instruction was found on the internet.

[blackcat2]

Okay I followed this and other advice. I checked the coupling and it was fine. I bought a new coupling just in case but it looked exactly like what I had on there so I didn't change it out.

I replaced the entire clutch using the required part kit: 3951311 and then tried to get it to spin but still nothing.

It is doing the exact same as before: It agitates, goes through all the cycles fine, drains but will not spin.

I have a model LSR5132PQ0 and I have about every diagram there is and now I know my washer really well. LOL.

I am at a loss now what the problem could be.

Heidi

[bettyboop]

If the motor is running in spin, and you have a new coupling, and the spin basket just sits stil,l your automatic transmission could be bad. The shifter in your automatic transmission is bad. You could need a rebuilt ,or new trans.

[blackcat2]

Well it turns out it was 'none of the above' *laughs*

As I mentioned I did change the clutch and I bought a new coupling just in case but the one on there was not damaged so I left it alone.

Turns out though all I really needed to do was clean out the space between the drum itself and the plastic outer covering.

Once I got the guck that had built up in there over the years since I have had the machine apparently the spinning resumed at the normal pace. =)

I hope this little tidbit can help someone else before they spend $65 like I did on parts they do not need (at least not yet *laughs* )

- Heidi