[dmarr]

Having checked the forums, I have seen several possible problems, but am not sure how to check some of them. Our washer stopped mid-cycle (first in rinse, then again in spin). When I restarted it (unplug, wait, replug), the first time, it seemed fine, but would not restart again. Even after 1 hr. plus down time, it knocked twice, then started to hum. I can only turn the top portion of agitator one way, the bottom portion (nor the gearbox, now exposed) will not turn at all. However, the motor and transmission (at least at the agitator coupling) will turn both ways. Both the agitator coupling (previously replaced) and the plastic "wings" inside the agitator are intact. There are also no obstructions to the water draining (as I did this manually). On this washer, I can normally open the lid and the water will continue to fill, but in its present state, I cannot start any cycle, not even fill. Does this rule out the lid switch?
From what I am reading, the problem could still be electrical (lid switch, start capacitor, timer, etc.) or mechanical (gearbox, etc.). How can I narrow down the problem? What causes the humming sound (the same sound this washer makes if I attempt to start the fill cycle with the fill lines shut off; did that a couple times during a bsmt remodel )? I do not own an ohm meter, but will purchase if I cannot diagnose another way. If ohm meter is needed, details on which wires to test and readings would help.
Thanks!

[PS Staff - Sheila]

Do you have the cabinet off the washer?

What is humming? Is it the motor?

If the motor is what is humming remove the pump and then the motor and set it on the floor and see if it will run. You will have to jump the lid switch to do this.

Here is a link to your washer model LXR7144EQ2.

[dmarr]

Cabinet is on. Washer on its back with studs keeping inlets off ground (thought it was agitator coupling again at first). Not sure the source of the hum. I will listen for source more closely and attempt to test the motor if this is the origin. Thanks, and for the link as well.

[AmpDraw]

You need to take the cabinet off, pop the clips off holding the pump on, pop the clips then off holding the motor to the transmission and check the coupling. Unless you have the motor off you can't tell the coupling is good. Getting the cabinet off and on is the only hard part in all of this. The coupling itself is cheap and easy to replace, it connects one side of the motor to the transmission.

#13 in this diagram, part number PS1485646

http://www.partselect.com/Schematics...l/OUDZT8SQ.gif

Whirlpool LXR7144EQ2 Parts List

This is a very common part to fail on these if you've been over loading the machine. It at first looks like a cheap design, but in reality its a well thought out life saver for you, cheaper to buy and replace this plastic coupling than the other option, burned up motor or transmission that could result from over loading.

If it was mine, I'd go ahead and just replace the pump and the coupling now while I had it apart, both parts are very cheap to buy.

Like I said already, you're tough part is going to be getting the cabinet off and on if you've never done it before or even seen it done. Since you have it laying on its back my guess is you haven't.

Stand it back up right, remove these #49 screws from each side of the control panel, and flip/pivot the control panel up and back...

http://www.partselect.com/Schematics...l/NZHCQY5N.gif

Now you need to pop these #6 clips out of the top with a flat blade screw driver...

http://www.partselect.com/Schematics...l/QY90HRUL.gif

Pivot the entire cabinet back then lift up, think of it as all one piece, the top, the sides and the front and pivot it back as if it were hinged down by the front near your toes. It will all come off as one big piece, You'll need to disconnect that #9 (lid switch) in the last drawing to remove it completely.

Back to this drawing...

http://www.partselect.com/Schematics...l/OUDZT8SQ.gif

The (2) #21 clips hold the pump to the motor, pry off the clips, don;t really need to remove the hoses, just force the pump with hoses attached out of your way.

Then pry the (2) #17 clips off the motor and pull the motor out from the transmission. The coupling which is likely your problem is in three pieces, #13 in that drawing. You're probably going to find either the holes on the middle piece are worn out, or the three tabs that stick out from the outer two pieces are broken off.

Push one part of the new coupling on the transmission till the center hole is flush to the shaft. Put the center piece on that portion of the coupling. Put the third outer part of the coupling on the motor and rotate it to line up with the holes on the center coupling piece. Hold the motor in tight with one hand and try to get your top motor clip on first (only because it will then hold the motor there while you force the bottom clip on making it easier).

Put your pump back on. Reconnect your lid switch, pivot the front bottom of the cabinet on first. Rotate it back to lock it into the rear panel (good luck, takes some doing), then force those top clips back in (good luck again).

If this coupling was bad, there will be no mistaking it, so no guess work required there.

[dmarr]

Thank you both for your assistance. The "humming" was first originating from the water intake. The electronic component of the cold water intake had some corrosion. After cleaning this, the washer would power on, fill, and attempt to spin, but stop after about a 1/4 turn with a louder sound coming from the motor. I rechecked the pump, motor, etc. and found that the pump was stopped up after all.