[Weege]

Hello everyone,

My Whirlpool, model LSR8233EQ1, stopped working in the middle of a load. The timer control was on the spin cycle. I took the timer control apart to see if there were any signs of a short or even broken pieces/tabs but it all looks in tact. When I set the cycle control knob to spin, it buzzes and clicks for a few short bursts but nothing else happens.

Yesterday when this began, the basket would spin slowly and gain some speed but 10 seconds later it would stop spinning. If I tried to get it to spin again I would have to wait about 10 minutes before it would repeat the aforementioned symptom.

Today It just buzzes and clicks. If it is worth mentioning, the lights in the laundry room dim slightly when I engage the cycle. This only tells me that it is drawing power.

I removed the agitator to see if the gear that engages it was stripped in any way but it all looks good. I am tempted to disassemble the gear case but I thought I would reach out before I start to spin my wheels (no pun intended).

Here is a link to the parts list if it helps at all... http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/asse...-%20881550.pdf

Any help would be greatly appreciated -- Thank you!

[PS Staff - Sheila]

Have you taken the cabinet off to check the coupler that goes between the motor and transmission?

To do this follow these steps:

Unplug the washer.

Remove the two screws in the console there is one in each end cap.

Flip the console up.

Remove the two brassy spring clip holding the cabinet to the back.

Disconnect the lid switch wiring harness.

Open the lid and tilt the cabinet toward you and lift it at the same time.

Place the cabinet out of your way.

Remove the two clamps holding the pump to the motor.

You do not have to remove the hose just swing the pump out of the way.

Disconnect the wiring harness to the motor.

Remove the two screws holding the motor in place and lower the motor.

You will now have access to the coupler.

Half is on the motor and half is on the transmission shaft and there is a black rubber piece that joins them together.

Check the coupler for a rounded center where it slides on the shaft or a crack.

Here is a link to your washer model LSR8233EQ1.

[Weege]

Thank you Sheila for the thorough instructions.

I checked the couplers and they are in tact. I then removed the couplers, re-mounted and connected the motor and turned the washer to spin cycle. I could hear a hum but no movement. I spun the motor shaft manually and turned the washer to spin cycle again. The motor did spin at very low revolutions but seemed to be struggling with each revolution.

Does it sound that the motor is bad or the contacts are burned? If so, how can I check the contacts and where are they? Or can I just replace the motor and assume that all will be okay?

[PS Staff - Sheila]

Was the pump on the motor or off?

Is the motor easy to turn by hand?

You may have a faulty start capacitor.

[Weege]

The pump was off the motor and the motor was really easy to turn. I will check the capacitor tonight. Thanks again

[Cob]

I too have a no spin problem and have determined that the coupling is not at fault. I did notice that as I turned the gear case by hand thus spinning the basket that it would slip from time to time. Is this a clutch problem, or could there be wear spots on the Spin Pinion? My next option is to break into the gear case but I would like to get some input before I start breaking bolts. Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks again,
Robert (Cob)

[kayakcrzy]

Weege, if you have a meter, put your meter leads in the plug that the washer is pluged into, and read the voltage, of course it should read about 120 volts. Leave the leads inside the plug, and what I want you to do is turn the washer on spin cycle, and then look at the meter, and see what the voltage goes too. If it drops more then 10%, you have a voltage problem, if it read 120 volts, you have a motor problem. When sheild gave you those awsome instructions on how to take your washer apart, did you try to spin the shaft on the pump, to see if it didn't seize? I can be reached at my website at ApplianceEducator.com Tom

[Cob]

Well, I did break into the gearcase and it was the "GEAR&PINON (Gear and Pinion Kit)" that was the problem. The teeth on the gear were broken off on about a 1/3section. I wondered why they were not broken all the way and came up with a couple of different theories. First theory is that there was a greater amount of stress put on the gear during the agitate cycle in that it was back and forth. This in turn weakend the area where the teeth broke off. Of course there is also the possibility that something else contributed to this such as the shaft being out of balance. I'm leaning more towards the agitate theory but can't be certain. If anyone has had any dealings with this I would appreciate some input. Sometimes parts simply wear out over time (Planned obsolescence) but often when you determine that a part has worn out it may be a symptom of something else. That is what I am concerned about...if something else is wrong in the system that contributed to the teeth being broken than I need to address that problem as well. I really appreciate this website...it's one of the better ones that I've visited.

[kayakcrzy]

Cob, in my experience as a service technician, I really don't come accross to many gear case problems. Whirlpool make a good washer. It could just be a fluke, or too much overloading of the washer. It is a pretty basic product. Tom ApplianceEducator.com

[Weege]

Sheila and Tom,
I tested the capacitor and it tested fine (not faulty). I also tested the plug as Tom suggested above and it read 120v even when I turned the machine on spin cycle. Does this mean the motor is definitely bad?

I should also mention that when I ran the motor by itself and it was running sluggish I grabbed the shaft to see if I would get any resistance from it but I did not. I was able to stop the motor with two fingers and no effort on my part. It seems as if the motor is not getting enough power or generating enough power. Is there a way to test that or is it safe to just replace the motor and assume that all will be fine?

Thanks again,