YOU MIGHT HAVE SOMETHING THERE! YOU COULD HAVE A DEAD SPOT, ON THE TIMER CAM/POINTS(CONTACTS) NON REPAIRABLE SITUTATION. ARE YOU SURE ITS NOT ONE OF THE MODELS THAT HAVE BUILT IN PAUSES? NOW ON THE CLUTCH LININGS, EARLY MODELS HAD A BAND THAT SITS IN A CHROME BASKET, ON THIS BAND, WERE 6 EQUIL SECTIONS OF CLUTCH LINING. V E R R Y HEAVY DUTY POWERFUL CLUTCH, I REPLACED VERY FEW, IN THE PAST FEW YEARS, THE SUPER SIZE MODELS HAVE HALF(3) OF YHE PIECES OF LINING REMOVED FROM MODERN SPIN CLUTHES. THE NEWER LIGHT DUTY CLUTCHES WORK WELL,PROVIDED YOU DON'T OVER LOAD YOUR WASHER. THEN I HAVE REPLACED CUSTOMERS CLUCTHES IN AS MUCH AS 6 MONTHS. ON THOSE CUSTOMERS I REPLACE THERE 3 PAD LINING WITH THE OLD 6 PIECE LINING (HEAVY DUTY) IF A WASHER IS LOADED PROPERTY, THE CLUTCH CAN LAST A LONG TIME. TO REPLACE YOUR CLUTCH, REMOVE THE AGITATOR BOLT WITH A 7/16th SOCKET,AND PULL OUT AGITATOR.
WITH THE CABINET OFF, TILT WASHER BACK ON A SMALL APPLIANCE DOLLY.
NOW POWER CORD PULLED OF COURSE, UN PLUG MOTOR WIRE HARNESS. AND 2 RED LEADS ON YOUR (BLACK) ROUND START CAPSITOR. PRISE OFF THE 2 METAL CLIPS, HOLDING THE PUMP ON,AND TIE IT OUT OF YOUR WAY W/HOSES STILL ATACHED. NOW ON THE SIMULAR MOTOR CLIPS, YOU'LL SEE 2 LOCKING SCREWS, REMOVE THEM, THEN PRISE OF THOSE CLIPS ALSO , REMOVE MOTOR, ALL YOU HAVE TO DO NOW IS PULL THE TRANS ALL THE WAY OUT, AND SET IT UP RITE ON THE FLOOR. LOOK AT THE CHROME DRUM AND WITH ANY PAIR OF PLIERS PINCH THE LINING AND REMOVE FOR INSPECTION, NEW LINING IS ABOUT 1/8th THICK,
THE LINING RIVETS SHOULD BE RECESSED HALF THE WAY IN THE LINING, NOT FLUSH AND RUBBING THE DRUM, IF THEY DON'T LOOK PRETTY DARN GOOD TO YOU, REPLACE. CHECK THE LINING ALSO FOR SIGNS OF OIL OR GREASE ON THEM.
IF SO, CLEAN THE CLUTCH DRUM SPOTLESSLY CLEAN WITH COMMON CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID. THE BEST DE-GREASER THERE IS.
WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE, PUT A SMALL AMOUNT OF ANY COMMON GREASE, ON THE PAINTED BRAKE DRUM AREA WHERE THE BRAKE SHOES RIDE, (NO MORE GREASE THAN THE SIZE OF A PEA ) THIS KEEPS THE BRAKES FROM APPLYING TOO FIRM AND BREAKING THE NEW COUPLER. PINCH IN THE NEW SHOES SMEAR A SLIGHT FILM OF GREASE ON THR CHROME TRANS SHAFT, (AS THIS IS THE ONLY TIME IT GETS LUBED) AS YOU SLIDE THE TRANS BACK IN, MAKE THE WHITE BRAKE ACTUATOR ON THE BRAKE UNIT FITS IN THE CLUTCH AND NOT ON THE LINING SPRING. INSTALL THE 3 TRANS BOLTS, INSTALL THE NEW HEAVY DUTY,"FSP" COUPLER PART#285753A, WITH THE IMPROVED METAL INSERTS, PRISE OFF THE OLD PLASTIC PARTS W/ FLATHEAD SCREW DRIVER. TO INSTALL THE NEW ONES, PLACE IT ON SHAFT PUT THE HANDLE OF A SCREWDRIVER ON THE NEW PART AND GENTLY TAP ON THE POINT OF THE SCREWDRIVER WITH A HAMMER TILL THE SHAFT IS ALMOST FLUSH. THEN DO SAME WITH MOTOR SHAFT. INSTALL RUBBER SHOCK RING ,REPLACE, MOTOR,PUMP,WIRING HARNESS, REINSTALL AGITATOR, AND YOU ARE DONE.I'M VERY OLD AND AND SLOW, THAT JOB TAKES ME 10-15 MIN BETTYBOOP | 
I have a couple questions about mine. The clothes are always coming out wet at the end of the spin cycle. I watched the cycle and it does complete it, seems to spin alright, but hard telling since I am not familiar with its RPM. Definitely quicker then when it is just draining. I have searched the forums and learned that maybe the brakes could be dragging. While looking at the brake drum, I noticed the 3 piece coupler had alot of black rubber shavings around it and discovered a crack in it. Since this coupler will need replacement soon, I was wondering if there is some way it could also be causing my wet clothes problem? It seems like a part that either works or not. 
Does it contain the exploded view diagrams of my washer?
