[jgarb]

Originally Posted by PS Volunteer - Appguy

One possibility is you could have something in the tub. With a plastic tub it is easy to see it Just stick a light in prin basket and look for some thing.

Well I guess it was not obvious by my previous posts, but at least for my model the agitator & Basket are removed to pull the gearcase and replace the Clutch. In doing so nothing was seen in the tub.

Originally Posted by PS Volunteer - Appguy

It is a good idea to pull motor and pump and turn the tranny coupler clockwise till the transmission engages. If it is now hard to turn you have dragging brake shoes.

So when you say hard to turn, you mean that there should be little resistance when the transmission engages. won't there be some resistance in order to account for the torque required to turn the transmision? I quess I am having a difficult time understanding how "hard" is hard.

So other times when the basket seems to freely spin manually by hand is not an indication that the brake shoes are not dragging?

Also I still would like a link to the "brake shoe on the grinder" technique.

Thank you in Advance for your help. This has been a frustrating few weeks without a washer and three young kids.

[PS Volunteer - Appguy]

I turn the coupler with two fingers. With dragging brake shoes it's almost impossible to turn. If you have an amp probe, the motor will draw over 10 amps in spin with dragging brake shoes. Will get chang info now

[PS Volunteer - Appguy]

Send a private msg. for grinder link.

[PS Volunteer - Appguy]

To remove brake shoes just loosen spin basket drive nut, remove tranny and pry down spin tube till brake shoes clear housing. Remove shoes,spring and cam. Grind each brake shoe down half way and soak in light oil, then put everything back together. It is much easier to get the spring on this way. Next push everthing up all the way,install cam and plastic shimm, then pry each shoe to get roller on cam.

[jgarb]

Originally Posted by PS Volunteer - Appguy

I turn the coupler with two fingers. With dragging brake shoes it's almost impossible to turn. If you have an amp probe, the motor will draw over 10 amps in spin with dragging brake shoes. Will get chang info now

Just ran a test Quick wash, the washer did not spin. I could spin the basket manually though.

Then

I removed Pump & Motor. Turned the Coupler with Thumb and finger. It was not too hard. I rember testing this back on June 6, aftre you had also mentioned this then. So The coupler does turn. It just seems that whatever is driving the basket is not connected.

[jgarb]

Okay getting back to Square One. I am just trying to think of the Mechanics on the spin operation.

I once again took the tranny out, inspected the brakes. In putting the machine back together I remebered reading "Notice that the notches in the drive block line up with the tabs on the basket drive" I do not know if I understand that statement. Also once the spanner nut is tightened on the drive block, the drive block and basket freely rotate on the basket drive. This does not seem right. There seems to be no positive connection between the basket and the basket drive.

[jgarb]

For anyone following my Saga. My original Weak Spin was most likely (learning to talk without total confidance after reading so many ; it could be, it might be , it could possibly be, posted solutions out in cyberspace) due to a weak clutch. Almost positve. The lack of any spin after the fix was due to the Spanner Nut not being extra, extra tight. I finally stepped back from reading all the solutions to understand what was happening. Without any spin at all the Basket drive rotation was not transfering to the basket. The Spanner nut needed to be tightened untill it put proper compressive force and resulting friction "clamp" on the basket drive shaft.

Thanks for all the help.

I did only lube the Brake Drum. If I see a problem later I will look into Grinding.

[jgarb]

Well it was good while it lasted. The machine worked for the last six days or so. I asked my wife and she thinks that it may have done about 8 loads. Today the last load was not stuck to the sides of the basket as normally and it was wet. I ran through the Spin Diagnostic and the spin was "weak" for all three settings (high, medium and low) maybe 100 spins a second.

Maybe I need to look into grinding the brakes which I still have no specific which is the recommended procedure. My wife is ready to just get a new washer if she can find a no "bells & Whistles" washer for $300.

Isn't this washer worth fixing? I can purchase new brakes in nessesary.

[jgarb]

I did see the #14 post and it states a method of grinding brakes down. I have a friend with a bench grinder and I have a Dremel tool. Any advice?

Soak in light Oil? I have motor oil, olive oil, Canola oil, peanut oil.

[jgarb]

I just pulled the Agitator off so that I could watch to see if the Basket Drive was spinning Faster than the Basket. I thought the Drive Block could be slipping. The basket drive seem to spin at teh same rate (too slow) as the Basket. When the Basket drive stops though the Basket does a revolution or so. And I can grab the Basket and spin it and see the drive block rotaed independently of the Basket drive Shaft. Is this right? If I manually spin the basket should not the Drive Block "grab" the Basket drive and spin it also?