 | All information and advice in these forums is not intended to replace an on-site diagnosis from a qualified appliance service technician.
| |  | Overflows, won't agitate |  |
08-18-2007, 06:52 PM
|
#1 | | Junior Member Apprentice DIYer
Woody is offline
Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 5 | Overflows, won't agitate Brand: Maytag Model Number: MAV7200AWW Age: 5 - 10 years Maytag Atlantis - It will overfill and not switch to agitate. I have replaced the WATER INLET VALVE and the WATER LEVEL PRESSURE SWITCH. THe rubber hose going to the Water Level Pressure Switch is OK. THe water flow into the tub will stop when I unplug the machine.
- What could be the problem | |
| |
08-19-2007, 02:13 AM
|
#2 | | Service Techician Master DIYer
bettyboop is offline
Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 761 | Check this, with washer empty, unplug the little hose that controls the water pressure switch from the tub end,(leave the other end connected to pressure switch.) Now shut off the hot & cold faucets. set timer to fill, pull out knob, gently blow on the little hose, you should hear a click from pressure switch, and washer should agitate, if so thats good, next ck the little hose for holes or splits. if it looks good, cut off 1/2" off each end and reattatch the pressure sw hose and do a test fill, if it works normal, order a new replacement hose | |
| |  | thanks bettyboop |  |
08-22-2007, 01:24 AM
|
#3 | | Junior Member Apprentice DIYer
Woody is offline
Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 5 | thanks bettyboop Bettyboop,
Problem seems to be solved thanks to your advice. I blew through the tube and heard the click. I then cut off the obviously stretched-out ends of the tube and that seems to have solved the problem (I hope). We have a back log of clothes to wash so the machine will be put to the test.
If you read this, then maybe you will know the answer to another question I have and will probably soon post – The washer has “self adjusting” rear legs. When you first set-up the machine you are supposed to lift the back side off the floor about 4 inches and then let it drop. The back legs then “self adjust” to the contour of the floor. My question is - How can the back legs be “reset” so they will “self adjust” again to a new location in the washroom. There is no obvious way to do it but I don’t believe Maytag would have made this machine to self adjust only 1 time. | |
| |
08-22-2007, 04:41 AM
|
#4 | | Service Techician Master DIYer
bettyboop is offline
Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 761 | I don't know about your self adjust problem, but on whirlpools & some G E s I tilt the washer to me and lightly tap both legs (usually stuck) and when they're set back down, should act as when it was new.Bettyboop | |
| |  | did NOT pass test |  |
08-23-2007, 09:49 PM
|
#5 | | Junior Member Apprentice DIYer
Woody is offline
Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 5 | did NOT pass test Dear Betty - I hope you are still out there.
The washer completed 3 or 4 loads with no problem, but then develop a NEW problem.
When I set the control knob to Heavy and then pull out on it, it should start to fill with water, but NO water flows and it immediately starts to agitate.
It did this a few times and then went through a wash load correctly, andf then went back to the problem again - agitating rather then filling with water. Possibly this inconsistancy will tell you something.
It is a Maytag Atlantis, Model # mav7200aww, serial # 19160323yz if it helps any, with a new Water Level Control and new Water Inlet Valve. | |
| |
08-24-2007, 01:36 AM
|
#6 | | Service Techician Master DIYer
bettyboop is offline
Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 761 | To start with when you pull out the knob, current from the timer opens the fill valves, by going thru the pressure switch, the pressure switch has a diaphram, a set of contacts on one side to to turn on water. Then when the pressure arrives at the pre seclected level the diaphram moves, opening the fill contacts, and closing the motor start contacts at the same time starts the timer in that cycle. So
all you have to do, is find out, if there's a bad set of contacts in the timer, or bad place in the harness. I start looking for burned contacts, that might make contact one time, but not the next. Use the the schematic with your machine.Bettyboop | |
| |  | Source of problem solved - unknown part name? |  |
09-07-2007, 01:26 AM
|
#7 | | Junior Member Apprentice DIYer
Woody is offline
Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 5 | Source of problem solved - unknown part name? Betty Boop,
Sorry it has taken so long to get back to this. We had telephone line problems which affected or computer modem and it took several days to get the lines repaired.
I followed your advice and checked the contacts and wiring harness, all of which are OK,
Now – I have located the source of the problem. I disconnected the small rubber tube which runs from the water level switch down to the bottom of the washer tub. I disconnected it at the lower end. I started the Fill Cycle and when the water was at a desired depth I blew into the tube, the water level switch clicked, the water flow stopped, and the agitation started. I then clamped the rubber tube shut until the agitation was completed. When it began to drain I then released the clamp on the rubber tube. When the tub started to fill with water again for the rinse cycle and reached a desired level, I once again blew into the rubber tube, the water level switch clicked, the water flow shut off, the rinse cycle started and I again clamped the rubber hose shut until the rinse cycle completed and the water began to drain.
My wife has washed probably 20 loads this way. It works fine but is very time consuming.
So THE PROBLEM is that part on the bottom side of the machine which causes the air pressure to build up in the rubber tube which runs up to the water level switch. When there is air pressure in the rubber tube, everything works fine.
I have not seen this part mentioned by name in any of the other postings.
What is the name of that part on the underside of the machine where the rubber hose, running from the water level pressure switch, connects to.
Hopefully it can be replaced. If it is a part which can not be replaced (which is maybe why I have not seen it mentioned by name) then is it possible that maybe lint is clogging an opening and preventing the weight of the water in the wash tub to build up the necessary air pressure in the rubber tube?
Please let me know the name of that part on the underside of the wash tub and how to replace it, if possible, and I will immediately order it from you.
A quick recap of specifics = Maytag Atlantis Model MAV7200AWW, Serial # 19160323YZ. Has new Water Level Switch and Water Inlet Valves.
I want to add that your web site is absolutely the best. Other web sites give general standard answers which don’t even match the question. Your site shows real personal attention to details. | |
| |  |
09-07-2007, 03:32 AM
|
#8 | | Service Techician Master DIYer
bettyboop is offline
Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 761 | Woodie, that bell something your talking about, are you sure it's at fault? Did you replace the little pressure hose like I said? Did you try to use the hose to blow into the bell and check for an obstruction? The system is simple, the hose has to be leak free from the bell to the pressure switch. So as water enters the bell and pushes water up the hose till the right pressure switches on the motor. There's nothing mysterious about it! waiting for your reply Bettyboop | |
| |  | |  |
09-08-2007, 07:06 PM
|
#9 | | Junior Member Apprentice DIYer
Woody is offline
Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 5 | Thanks for your reply.
I didn’t replace the Small Rubber Hose (let call it the SRH for Small Rubber Hose) but I did test it for leaks to my satisfaction. Also, when it is disconnected from the Bell end (I believe it is called the Air Dome) and I gently blow into it, it works fine, switching off the water flow and switching on the agitator. If you still believe it shold be replaced, I will certainly do so.
However, assuming the SRH is OK, it really looks like the only possible source of our problem is the part (the Air Dome?) which causes the pressure to build in the SRH to activate the Water Level Control switch.
I did blow into the SRH with it connected to the Air Dome and there is total resistance (blockage ?). Should air pass through the Air Dome freely?
I don’t know how the Air Dome is constructed. The machine has no lint-catcher. Is it possible that lint has covered an opening in the Air Dome which prevents the water from building up the air pressure in the SRH ? I ran a small piece of wire into the nipple on the Air Dome (onto which fits the SRH) thinking I might push through any lint obstruction. After a couple of inches I made contact with something solid but spongy soft. I though it might be some type of rubber diaphragm so I backed away from it.
What do you think ? How is the Air Dome made inside ? Do you think an opening could be clogged with lint ? If so, how should it be removed ?
Last edited by Woody : 09-08-2007 at 07:18 PM.
| |
| |  |
09-08-2007, 11:48 PM
|
#10 | | Service Techician Master DIYer
bettyboop is offline
Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 761 | Woodie:
I believe the air dome has to be open, even on an obsolete maytag. On all whirlpool products and G.E if you take off the SRH water will squirt all over the place if the tub has water in it. Do you use liquid softner? If so it plugs things, along with lint and so the air dome must be plugged. LIKE I'VE ALLWAYS SAID.
THERE MUST A SOUND PRESSURE IF YOU WANT YOUR WASHER TO FILL!!!!
get the air dome cleared of any cloges!!! Water comes thru up the srh and starts motorby pressure. comprendy? (bad spanish sp) | |
| | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
Posting Rules
| You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |
All information and advice in these forums is not intended to replace an on-site diagnosis from a qualified appliance service technician.
| | All times are GMT. The time now is 02:44 PM. | | | | |