[gaerett94]

Hi all-
I walked into the laundry room to find my 1.5 year old GE washer stopped mid-wash, water still in, light layer of smoke floating in the air. First thought was toasted motor. Took of bottom cover and belt. When I manually turned the cycle knob, motor would engage without issue. Also, pump seemed to be fine. When turned to specific point in cycle (with belt back on) you would hear motor try to go (low droning sound), but no spinning/agitating would engage. I've since disassembled it and found nothing jammed in anywhere to cause a problem. I'm thinking transmission now, but would like better than a hunch for a $150 part. Anyone know if trannys often go bad so quickly? Could the motor be working one direction and not the other? I would test that again, but don't want to completely re-assemble to try. I found that the agitator was very hard to turn by hand, compared that to new washers and found them to turn easily, then came to another GE and it felt the same, very hard to turn. So, I don't know. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Thanks!

[PS Staff - Sheila]

Can you please provide your model number?

[gaerett94]

The model number is WHDSR315DAWW.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

Did the water drain before it went in to the spin cycle?

Check your owner manual for the warranty on the transmission.

It could be the break that is stuck on.

Here is a link to your washer model WHDSR315DAWW.

[gaerett94]

The water wasn't drained initially. I believe it did drain later when I manually turned the cycle knob. The warranty for everything expired 6 months ago.
If it were the brake, is there any way to test that. And isn't the brake part of the transmission, which needs to be replaced as one piece? Thanks!

[jason799]

Don't waste your time looking for a brake-there isn't one.

It's your tranny.

GE trannys should run anywhere from $85 and up=shop around.

When a belt burns it's almost always a tranny failure. Replace belt also because it now has a blind spot.

If you try to do it your self there is a "Hub Nut" (# 325 in the parts diagram) ring under the agitator. You have to just break it off with a chisel or some like tool. It's a real pain and very stupid design.

Good luck it's actually very easy, except for that nut.

They're actually crappy machines.

J

[JeffreyD1754]

jason799 is right. I just did mine. A simple job other than the " hub nut" that he speaks of. It's a left handed thread aluminum nut. I used a short pipe wrench and a ball pean hammer to knock it loose. Don't bother going to the hardware store for a wrench or socket because you won't find one LOL! I understand that the rubber seal fails and water runs down the shaft and takes out the bearing in the transmission. Crap design. Good luck.

[jason799]

Jeffrey is a better man than thou.

I tried a wrench with a shortened handle and a 4lb sledge and couldn't do it.

I once had to use a grinder.

I'm glad he agrees that it is a crap design-I sometimes shake my head.

Who designs this junk????

J

[PS Staff - Sheila]

The break is a part of the transmission.

The transmission turns counter-clock-wise to spin.

So if the break is not releasing you will be able to see it.

If the water did not drain and the washer tried to spin this would cause the belt to burn.

You may have a problem with your timer if you had to manually advance the timer to get it to drain.