[cvedell]

The likely cause of my washer not draining is the motor. Is there a way of verifying that the motor or motor control assy are bad other than replacing it?
Is there a place that tests these units (repair depot) that I could mail this to or is local to San Jose, Ca.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

A local repair shop should be able to test your motor for you.

[Jackie Winborne]

We had this problem. My husband had to blow into the drain hose. Something, such as a sock was stuck in the hose. Try it, it works!

[rolloverguytoo]

I have a Maytag Neptune front loading washer. I used the hints on this forum. The washer stopped without draining. I took out the draing pump (easy to do). I checked the outlet side of the plastic pump and found at the base of the plastic outlet a nickel. There is a lip on the inside of the plastic outlet housing that lets a nickel cion sit tight up against it to perfectly seal the outlet. using a pair of needle nose pliers I could rotate the nickel and pull it out. There is a rubber flap valve on the outlet side you have to move to inspect the inside of the outlet housing.

Thanks.

[rolloverguytoo]

ok there was a nickel in the outlet but the machine only drained once so I took the pump out again. This time the machine reported a SUDS error. If the drain pump impeller can not spin the electro magnet motor driving it heats up (I could hardly touch the metal block) The motor over heats, the water stays in the machine, and it generates a SUDS or ND (not drained) error.


With the pump assembly out of the machine I unscrewed the three screws holding the black plastic motor housing onto the white plastic pump impeller housing and pulled the assembly apart. Mark the screw locations. There was a dime stuck under the impeller which I was able to remove. The pump motor transmits power to the impeller with a magnetic coupling (aquarium pump filters work like this too). I was able to pull the electro magnet assembly straight back, only two plastic tabs hold this on which can be temporarily held away gently (do not break them) from the locking tabs. This is the metal blocky piece. Put it aside. The impeller assembly (the part with the impeller attached) can then be pulled out off the black tubular housing by grabbing the 2" diameter black plastic ring and moving it away from the tubular housing. The 2" O ring should be removed and you can see the joint. (note the impeller itself is tight on the shaft and should not be pulled on at all). With all the parts apart you can wash the sand a gunk out of the impleler body. I put a light layer of grease on the magnetic impeller shaft (its about an half inch in diameter and 3 inches long)before putting the impeller assembly back in the housing. The machine is a year and a half old and a lot of dirt goes through the wash. This whole operaton took a couple of hours but it looks like I should probably do this every couple of years.

[kayakcrzy]

The maytag neptune does not use the motor to drain, it uses the pump seperatly. You either have a clogged drain pump, or the pump is not functioning. If you put the washer on drain do you hear the pump come on? unplug the washer, and take the front panel off, and have some towels ready, and take the pump off, and see what is in it. If you have kids, I usually find baby socks, money lint front towels. You can do it. If you need any instruction you can reach me on my web site, at ApplianceEducator.com

[neptunewaxmotordotcom]

Neptune owners, don't forget to replace your door latch wax motor, Maytag part # 12002535 before it damages your machine control board... See #1 MAYTAG NEPTUNE WASHER R11 Q6 REPAIR KIT + WAX MOTORtm for details...

[gbski]

Originally Posted by rolloverguytoo

ok there was a nickel in the outlet but the machine only drained once so I took the pump out again. This time the machine reported a SUDS error. If the drain pump impeller can not spin the electro magnet motor driving it heats up (I could hardly touch the metal block) The motor over heats, the water stays in the machine, and it generates a SUDS or ND (not drained) error.


With the pump assembly out of the machine I unscrewed the three screws holding the black plastic motor housing onto the white plastic pump impeller housing and pulled the assembly apart. Mark the screw locations. There was a dime stuck under the impeller which I was able to remove. The pump motor transmits power to the impeller with a magnetic coupling (aquarium pump filters work like this too). I was able to pull the electro magnet assembly straight back, only two plastic tabs hold this on which can be temporarily held away gently (do not break them) from the locking tabs. This is the metal blocky piece. Put it aside. The impeller assembly (the part with the impeller attached) can then be pulled out off the black tubular housing by grabbing the 2" diameter black plastic ring and moving it away from the tubular housing. The 2" O ring should be removed and you can see the joint. (note the impeller itself is tight on the shaft and should not be pulled on at all). With all the parts apart you can wash the sand a gunk out of the impleler body. I put a light layer of grease on the magnetic impeller shaft (its about an half inch in diameter and 3 inches long)before putting the impeller assembly back in the housing. The machine is a year and a half old and a lot of dirt goes through the wash. This whole operaton took a couple of hours but it looks like I should probably do this every couple of years.

i found a quarter wedge in my pump inlet completely blocking all water flow. and a penny in the drain line getting ready to do some more damage. also opened up the pump and cleaned out all the crude and sand. thanks for the tips all.