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Machine Fills, but no Agitation, spin or Drain

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"Previously I have had replacement of the Transducer on Dec. 06, 2006 under an extended ..."


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Machine Fills, but no Agitation, spin or Drain
Old 12-01-2007, 05:41 PM   #1
jgarb
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Default Machine Fills, but no Agitation, spin or Drain
Brand: Whirlpool
Model Number: GSX9885JQ0
Age: 5 - 10 years

Previously I have had replacement of the Transducer on Dec. 06, 2006 under an extended Warranty policy). I believe at the time the machine did give the F4 Code for Recirculation Pressure Switch Failure. I was not involved in this warranty repair, but since then I have done much research on the Machine and have replaced the Drive block.

Yesterday my wife had set the machine for a small load. When she checked on the load the machine looked overfilled and the Code "LD" was flashing. This code was for if it takes longer than an hour to pump out water down to a reset level (approx 4").

I could not get the machine to drain using the Neutral Drain Spin test. The machine just clicked and "thumped" at each stage of the test.

After draining the machine manually I checked the Pump and it was not jammed. I have checked for blockage in both the Transducer and Pressure tubes they are un-obstructed.

When running the Recirculation Pressure Switch Test the machine is supposed to fill, the water is to recirculate and the basket is to spin at medium speed. The display is to oscillate between t2 & Er, but the display stays on t2 and the basket does not spin.

The test states that if the "Er" is displayed immediately and persists, the recirculation pressure switch or tubing may have failed, or the pump is not recirculating water.
In my case the display never shows "Er" but after a while of filling up it will display "SP" or "5P". I cannot find this code anywhere in the Display codes.

Thank you for any help that you may give.
 
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Water Level Transducer Test
Old 12-01-2007, 06:32 PM   #2
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Default Water Level Transducer Test

As part of the Water Level Transducer Test after checking the hose connections to the pressure transducer it says to test the control board as follows:

* With the AC power on and the tub empty, measure the DC voltage between pins P1-1 ans P1-2 while the connector is still attached to the control board.

* If the voltage is between 2 and 3 VDC, replace the control board.

The volage read 2.55 VDC.

This is a $130 part and it is no refundable/returnable.
Is this the only test for a bad control board?
 
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Old 12-01-2007, 08:08 PM   #3
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Default

My whirlpool washer does everything but spin, does it have a belt on it? if so where is it located? I took everything off the back of the washer and I cant find any belt. This is a model LXR9245EQ1. Can you help me? Thanks mickey
 
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It was the Control Board
Old 12-03-2007, 08:27 PM   #4
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Default It was the Control Board

It Seems to be the Control board. After installing a new one, the washer is working properly again. The only diference is that in one of the Diagnostic test the control panel lights up in a different location (i.e. instead of the Most Soil level light, the Super Load size light is on, or instead of the Medium Soil level light being on durring a part of the test, the Medium Load size light is on.)

The only strange thing that I noticed is that even with the new control board working fine, measure the DC voltage between pins P1-1 ans P1-2 while the connector is still attached to the control board. produces a value of 2.66 V. Before it was 2.55.

Both these values are within "bad" board values of between 2 and 3 VDC, which calls for the replacement of the control board.

To address Mickey's question: Looking up your model LXR9245EQ1, it seems to be a Direct drive machine (which mine also is.) Hard to say what is is since you say it does everything but spin. It is always best to first check the Direct Drive Coupling.

Partselect.com - Whirlpool Appliance Parts And All Brands of Appliance Parts
 
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One Month Later, Same Problem
Old 01-04-2008, 08:12 PM   #5
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Default One Month Later, Same Problem

After replacing the Control Board on Dec. 1, 2007 the washer worked fine up until today Jan. 4 2008. I expected more than a month out of the new board. The exact same thing is now happening again. Any Help?

Just By-passed the Lid Switch and still no Neutral Drain/spin

Last edited by jgarb : 01-04-2008 at 10:01 PM.
 
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Old 01-05-2008, 03:22 PM   #6
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After replacing the Control Panel, the machine is not fixed this time. Am I looking at a Wire Harness problem?
 
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Motor Coupler Problem
Old 01-05-2008, 04:36 PM   #7
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Default Motor Coupler Problem

Searching this site for wire harness problem I found this:

Quote:
ApplianceJunk.com Post

Quote:
Could be a bad connection on the motor harness plug.

Like in this video.

Video: Bad Motor Connection

Your sears washer is a direct drive washer made by whirlpool for sears.

Check out this video to see how to get to the motor.

ApplianceJunk.com Video
Can not believe that I was not directed here. This was a simple solution of just tightening the connection. I guess I could have looked closer at the wire coupler first (it had evidence of a short with the black residue.). Lesson learned after spending $140 on new control board.
 
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