[ChrisB4614]

My in door dispenser isn't working right. It will give water or crushed ice but no cubes. When you try to get cubes the ice door opens and the light comes on. Any ideas?
Thanks, Chris

[jim1872003]

Dump the old ice and make all new ice and see if it fixes itself.
Could be a crush solenoid or ice bin went bad.

[ChrisB4614]

Thanks but that didn't seem to help. From what I've read the IDI motor reverses polarity and spins backwards to crush. I've looked at the wiring diagram and 4 wires go to the IDI motor. BR/WH goes to +, and RD/WH goes to -. If I don't care about crushed ice could I reverse these 2 wires and get cubed instead?

[eboller]

I had a similar problem with my Kitchenaid. It turned out that two (2) of the wires at the bottom of the door were broken. (When the door opens and closes it pulls on the wires and I think that's what caused the problem)

Right at the bottom left corner of the freezer door is a black mesh plastic material. The wires are in this mesh. I removed the freezer door by removing the three screws on the top of the freezer door, lifted up the door a couple of inches and laid it on the floor. I cut through the black plastic mesh and found two (2) broken wires. I repaired them (One was white with red line, one was blue) and put the door back on. All fixed. My original problem was no crushed or cubed ice. The motor that advances the ice cubes wouldn't turn.

Just be careful when you remove the door because the plastic tubing that runs into the door for the dispenser is in this area also.

[ChrisB4614]

The cube dispenser started working again on it's own and I've been waiting for it to quit again. I'll check those wires, they could be the culprit.
Thanks, Chris

[eboller]

Chris, here's the reply I sent to another fellow ith same problem. We both have Kitchen-Aid Refrigerators so I can't give any assurances that the procedure or problem is the same.

Ed

I had two (2) broken wires in the harness. I don't think you actually have to take the door off. It may be a little cramped working, but I think it can be done. Once you take off the bottom grill, find the end of the harness next to the water filter and unplug the white plug. Just below that is a ground wire. Remove the screw and take the green wire off. Then, next to that is a white "c-clip" holding the harness against the bottom of the refrigerator. Remove that clamp and you should have enough "play" to work on the harness. (It is probably a pain in the #*@ to remove the entire harness because it runs into a hole in the bottom of the door and then up through the door itself) You'll have to cut away the black mesh sleeve over the harness. I cut it with a pair of wire cutters as close to where the harness goes into the door as possible. There may also be a bit of black electrical tape at the end of the mesh closest to the white plug. Remove that, and you should be able to slide the mesh sleeve off, over the plug. This should reveal the broken wires. I just took some 12 gauge braided wire and cut a couple of pieces 2" long, bared the ends of all wires and soldered the wires together, making sure to match colors. I used electrical tape to carefully wrap around each wire, then slid the black mesh back on and taped over the end again by the plug. Put the white "c-clip" back on LOOSELY, and open the door all the way, making sure that it does not pull the wire assembly too tight, then tighten the c-clip. Put the green wire back on and then reconnect the white plug. Close the door and see if the crusher / dispenser works O.K. I hope it does. Put the bottom grill back on (also a bit of a pain in the #*@). This whole procedure took me about 15 minutes. Better than paying a service guy $ 350.00.

Ed