[sc41hou]

My KitchenAid KSCS25FKSS00 will make ice but won't dispense it. Water dispenses fine and when I try to dispense ice, the solenoid opens the flap, but the motor won't run. I thought the motor had seized and just replaced it to find that it still wouldn't turn the auger. Tried switching the wires (temporarily) and the motor turned. Since the light, motor and solenoid are wired in series, it appears to be the blue wire (dedicated negative, I imagine) that is disconnected somewhere. Any additional advice?

One post noted that the wires from the door can break, so I turned on the control panel light and shifted the bundled wire harness around. While doing so, the light did flicker. There does not appear to be ANY real play in the harness - how difficult is it to splice in additional wire - what guage is typically used, etc.? Any other things I should be looking at? I can't find a wiring diagram either...

[sc41hou]

I experimented with the wire harness that runs from the freezer door to the base of the refrigerator. I turned on the light and noticed that it flickered as I shifted the harness back and forth. Looks like I may have a few broken wires there since now I have no water (although pressing the lever does turn on the light - maybe it is run in series in the control panel) and when I press the ice lever, the solenoid no longer lifts the flap.

How difficult is it to replace the harness running from the door to the base of the refrigerator? Does the wire harness run all the way to the control panel inside the door? Is there an accessible connector in the base of the refrigerator? What part number(s) for the appropriate harness (since there are several shown in the diagrams provided by PartSelect)?

Thanks!

[eboller]

If you remove two (2) screws at the bottom of the fridge, you can remove the plastic grill at the bottom. You will find the schematic for the refrigerator behind the grill, probably on the right side. To the left side, next to the water filter, you will find a white plug. You can disconnect the electrical to the door by unplugging it. Also best to remove the green ground wire. Once this is done, the harness will be easy to work with. You could also remove the plastic "c-Clip" that holds the harness against the bottom og the fridge.

I just repaired my icemaker yesterday (01/26/08) It would give cubes, but no crushed. I think you mat have the same problem.


Ed

[eboller]

If you remove two (2) screws at the bottom of the fridge, you can remove the plastic grill at the bottom. You will find the schematic for the refrigerator behind the grill, probably on the right side. To the left side, next to the water filter, you will find a white plug. You can disconnect the electrical to the door by unplugging it. Also best to remove the green ground wire. Once this is done, the harness will be easy to work with. You could also remove the plastic "c-Clip" that holds the harness against the bottom of the fridge.

I just repaired my icemaker yesterday (01/26/08) It would give cubes, but no crushed. I think you mightt have the same problem.


Ed

[sc41hou]

Ed,

I think we are talking about the same problem. After moving the harness around some, I don't have water dispensing (in addition to the ice) and I can definitely make the panel light flicker - looks like I have several broken wires here.

So a couple of questions....I noticed on a separate post that you actually removed the freezer door. Is this necessary to get access to the harness connection to the freezer door? When you repaired the wires, how did you do it to insure that this same issue won't re-occur? If I have several wires broken or nearly broken, should I consider replacing the harness? If so, are both connection ends easily accessed?

Thanks!

Steve

[eboller]

Steve,

I had two (2) broken wires in the harness. I don't think you actually have to take the door off. It may be a little cramped working, but I think it can be done. Once you take off the bottom grill, find the end of the harness next to the water filter and unplug the white plug. Just below that is a ground wire. Remove the screw and take the green wire off. Then, next to that is a white "c-clip" holding the harness against the bottom of the refrigerator. Remove that clamp and you should have enough "play" to work on the harness. (It is probably a pain in the #*@ to remove the entire harness because it runs into a hole in the bottom of the door and then up through the door itself) You'll have to cut away the black mesh sleeve over the harness. I cut it with a pair of wire cutters as close to where the harness goes into the door as possible. There may also be a bit of black electrical tape at the end of the mesh closest to the white plug. Remove that, and you should be able to slide the mesh sleeve off, over the plug. This should reveal the broken wires. I just took some 12 gauge braided wire and cut a couple of pieces 2" long, bared the ends of all wires and soldered the wires together, making sure to match colors. I used electrical tape to carefully wrap around each wire, then slid the black mesh back on and taped over the end again by the plug. Put the white "c-clip" back on LOOSELY, and open the door all the way, making sure that it does not pull the wire assembly too tight, then tighten the c-clip. Put the green wire back on and then reconnect the white plug. Close the door and see if the crusher / dispenser works O.K. I hope it does. Put the bottom grill back on (also a bit of a pain in the #*@). This whole procedure took me about 15 minutes. Better than paying a service guy $ 350.00.

Ed