[Pinbyte]

This unit is just about 5 years old and just stopped making ice for a while. The icemaker arrangement is a little unusual since the ice collects in a bucket mounted on the door, and the ice 'detector' is optical... not like others I'm used to that have a metal bar that gets pushed up by the ice to turn off the ice maker.

I noticed one day that the ice bucket it not being replenished. So, I check the optical sensor which has an LED that indicates when it is working. It does not look like this is the problem. I don't have time to deal with it so I buy an old-fashioned ice tray to get me by.

Within a week, the ice maker is working again and I have a full bucket of ice. I would put this at about December of 2007. A few weeks go by and I have forgotten about it. I write it off as a freak occurrance.

A few weeks later, maybe 6, it happens again. I figure it is going to fix itself again. In the mean time, I put store-bought ice in the bucket. So one day before going to the store for to see if I need another bag of ice, I find that the bucket is full with ice-maker made ice! So the ice maker stopped for about 2 weeks that time, but it is back.

Yay I say... I can put this off for a bit longer. But still this is bugging me. There seems to be a switch on the unit that would make this ice maker work with the old lever bar method. I messed with that. I've checked the optical sensor over and over.

What is most likely to be happening? Is the motor that I assume drives the whole thing going wonky? Is it the valve that supplies water to the unit on demand on the flake? I have not had the water through the door fail yet as a matter of point, so that does not make sense either.

I am new to trying to DIY this sort of thing. On my old fridge, it set me back around $200 to get it done by a technician and that was years ago. I've managed to fix a lot of things on my own since then and am hoping these symptoms ring a bell with someone.

I don't want to replace a whole ice maker only to find that the problem lies with the water valve or just the motor or a switch.... or perhaps even a flakey connection. This is a fairly new fridge. At the moment, the ice maker is working and the bucket is full.

When it stops again as I suspect it will, I want a game plan. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

- Pinbyte

[kayakcrzy]

Replace the emitter board. Part # 4389102. If you need me you can reach me at my web site at ApplianceEducator.com Tom

[Pinbyte]

Originally Posted by kayakcrzy

Replace the emitter board. Part # 4389102. If you need me you can reach me at my web site at ApplianceEducator.com Tom

Thanks for your input, but perhaps I could have said it more clearly in my post, but the edmitter/receiver part shows overwhelming evidence that it is working.

- Pinbyte

[kayakcrzy]

Actually, you were perfectly clear. I just happen to know that the emitter kit has resisters that get hot, and then break the circuit between the lazer signal and the eye. Giving the emitter, the false sense of a full bucket. I might sound cynical, but, too many be people call me to fix the ice maker, and then call back and say that its working, only to call me back and me go out there and put in a emitter kit. So when the product is not working, and the fingers that push the ice out, are looking right at you when it is not working. Replace the Emitter Kit. Tom ApplianceEducator.com

[Pinbyte]

Originally Posted by kayakcrzy

I just happen to know that the emitter kit has resisters that get hot, and then break the circuit

Thank you very much for that information Tom. I take it you have seen this a lot? Is the problem just on the emitter side? The part number you gave me is a kit that includes both the emitter (as I am sure you know) and runs around $70.

I'd hate to spend that much when all that is needed is a new resistor! This sound something I can do without replacing the whole board. Do you know which resistor is most prone to failure? Thanks,

- Pinbyte

[kayakcrzy]

I do not know what resister it is. I am not a electronic technician, just the lonely repairman. LOL If you are an engineer, I will apologize up front. But since the new wave of engineers who are engineering the appliance now a days, we are glorified board changers. They thought these electronics were going to be great for the appliances, but they only seem great for my business, and the part manufacturers. Nothing will last 20 years anymore. You might get lucky, and not see a tech till your product is 2 years old. The answer to your question is both boards come in the kit. Again, on my last e-mail to you, I outlined what to look for when it does not work. You will know for sure then. If you need in the future, you can reach me at my web site at ApplianceEducator.com Tom

[Pinbyte]

Tom, I really appreciate your taking the time to add another post to this thread. Your statements ring true. But, you are more than ‘glorified board changer’. Since you replied to this thread without anything to gain, you must be willing to help people. And, you have helped me. Through the use of the part number you gave and a bit of Googling, I was able to find a lot of commentary and the ‘job aid’ manual for this ice maker online. I expect that such a manual is supposed to be for authorized technicians only, but somehow it has gotten out.

Perhaps it is because people are fed-up with exactly what you have stated. I will summarize by saying that you are right… appliances do not hold up for 20 years anymore. It astounds me that you think that two (2) years will warrant a repair. I have not been that unlucky. At the same time, I have to say that it is clear that appliances designed in recent years are offering only marginal advantages while cutting back on reliability and longevity.

As you have said, it is good for the repair business. Also, if you make a product last too long, you will not have anybody who needs a new one. Where is the profit in that for the corporation? As I compose this post, I suddenly picture in my mind a meeting where they decide which part will fail first and garner the most profit, yet not spoil the food stored in the fridge.

Not a catastrophic failure that will have the owner lose confidence in the fridge, but just enough to suck a bit of blood here and there. I cannot believe I am saying this, but at the moment it all makes sense.

As I am in fact an engineer experienced in control systems and suggest one of the following, but I cannot ever know:
1) The emitter/receiver design was flawed by design.
2) The emitter/receiver design was flawed by lack of experience by the designer.
3) The emitter/receiver was not TESTED well enough (which goes back to 1 and 2).
4) The design was an honest mistake realized too late.
5) There was a manufacturing defect, product not built to specification.
6) You have another explanation, please describe:______________________

Pick one or add your own.


P.S. I have gone a bit off-topic here, this is supposed to be about the intermittent ice maker. But it really is sickening how much work I have had to do to replace a stupid plastic part attached to a nylon string in my dishwasher that keeps the door from falling to the floor. Tom, you know what I am talking about.

[kayakcrzy]

Amen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!! Tom ApplianceEducator.com

[lantenon]

I am having a similar (no ice) issue with my Kitchenaid Superba side-by-side ice maker not making ice. On the advice that was posted previously, I replaced the optics with new parts -- they're working fine. However, post-relpacement, still no ice. I found the job guide and some other postings that explain you must manually initiate a harvest by jumping terminals T and H after the replacement. When I do this, the icemaker mold gets warm (from the heating element that allows the harvester to remove the ice), but the harvester "fingers" don't actually move. Would this indicate the icemaker motor has gone bad? It seems to, but I'm wondering if there's something else I can check to validate before buying more parts.

Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Justin

[kayakcrzy]

It sounds to me like you need the motor module. If you look at the front of the icemaker, you will see a phillips head screw in every corner, but 1, take them out, and replace the whole module. Also squeeze the black hose inside the freezer, where the water comes out, to make sure it is not frozen. If you can freeze it, it is OK. If you need me you can reach me at my web site at ApplianceEducator.com Tom