[apollos]

The fridge is normally plugged into an outlet that is part of a GFCI protected branch. Lately, the GFCI has been tripping. I replaced the GFCI which helped for several hours but it has started tripping as well. I have plugged the fridge into a non- GFCI outlet and it seems to run fine. The door frame does seem to be getting quite warm. The fan is running and there is no significant build up of dust. Any suggestions? Apollos.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

When does it trip the circuit?

Is it when the compressor comes on or is it when it goes into the defrost cycle.

If the door frame is getting hotter than normal that is a sign that the air flow is restricted.

Here is a link to your fridge model FRS26XGCW3.

[apollos]

It trips the GFCI right after I reset the GFCI. The frige(compressor, I assume) may run for a second or two before tripping. I can't tell by listening when the defrost cycle kicks in. I have verified the fan to be blowing and the area underneath the frige is relatively clear of dust, etc. for a 12 year old unit.

Tim

[PS Staff - Sheila]

If the GFCI is tripping right away there may be a problem in the defrost circuit.

What else is running on the GFCI circuit?

The fridge should be on a circuit by itself.

[apollos]

There are two receptacles on this branch. The first outlet is a kitchen receptacle on the splashboard and contains the GFCI. The wire goes on to feed the receptable behind the refrigerator. I have nothing else plugged into either receptacle. I have considered running a separate circuit to the refrigerator but wanted to resolve the tripping problem first in case it is fridge related. I currently have the fridge plugged into a non-GFCI receptacle via extension cord and it runs OK.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

As long as the extension cord is a heavy gage you should be fine.

Watch to see if the fridge is defrosting.

You can manually turn the defrost on with the timer that is located in the lower left front corner behind the kick plate.

With the compressor running turn the knob on the timer until the compressor shuts off.

You will be able to hear the water hitting the heater if you open the freezer door.

You can also check to see if there is water going into the drip pan under the fridge.

If the fridge does not defrost then you will have to check the heater and the defrost bi-metal.

The fridge will come back on in about 25 minutes.

[Icehouse]

Originally Posted by apollos

It trips the GFCI right after I reset the GFCI. The frige(compressor, I assume) may run for a second or two before tripping. I can't tell by listening when the defrost cycle kicks in. I have verified the fan to be blowing and the area underneath the frige is relatively clear of dust, etc. for a 12 year old unit.

Tim

This is an indication of overall unit wiring, be it compressor,defrost. A GFCI detecs very low voltage leaking, not evident with a regular outlet. Have the unit tested with a "High-Potential" tester or "Meg-ohmeter" to tell for certain.

[apollos]

Icehouse,

Thanks for your reply. Will the test indicate more than a voltage leak such as what is causing it? Perhaps that is just the first step to getting to the bottom of problem. Will running the fridge on a non-GFCI outlet damage it or pose some other danger?

[apollos]

Sheila,

I don't have a timer knob anywhere behind the kick plate or anywhere else that I can see. There are temp. knobs inside the freezer and the fridge but neither has a defrost setting. It appears to be defrosting OK.

[Icehouse]

Originally Posted by apollos

Icehouse,

Thanks for your reply. Will the test indicate more than a voltage leak such as what is causing it? Perhaps that is just the first step to getting to the bottom of problem. Will running the fridge on a non-GFCI outlet damage it or pose some other danger?

Sorry for the delay. If the GFCI trips immediately DO NOTuse this appliance as it poses a shock problem.