[metalforsale]

I have a GE S25JEMC CC side by side. About 2 months ago the fridge side stopped cooling. I took off the back panel from inside the freezer and the cools were extremely covered with chumks of ice. It took about 1/2 an hour to thaw them out with 2 hair dryers. The door to the ice chute had been stuck open for a long time, so I fixed it. I was thinking the warm air coming into the freezer had caused the frozen coil problem. About 3 weeks later, the coils froze again. I repeated the thawing process. Two weeks later It happened again. I repeated thawing process and ordered and installed a new mainboard on the back of the freezer. A week and half later the coils froze over again. This has happened 3 times since I installed the new mainboard. Any help with this problem, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!!

[kayakcrzy]

If you have a meter, you need to check the defrost heater. if it checks to be good, then replace the defrost thermostat. Unplug the refrigerator, and check the heater in ohms. No reading, replace it If you need me you can reach me at my website at wwwapplianceeducator.com Tom

[denman]

Could not find any info using the model number you listed
Is this from the sticker on the machine, it should also have the serial number on it.

From your post I assume this unit uses adaptive defrost control and it is located on the main control circuit board. If we also assume that this is operating correctly then normally you have two components which can prevent defrost

1. Defrost heater
2. Defrost thermostat

The best way to check them is with volt/ohm meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy but it is nice if the leads are a couple of feet long. If it saves you ordering one unnecessary part you have paid for the meter. When measuring resistance always disconnect one wire from the device, this prevents measuring an alternate circuit path. Always disconnect the power cord when measuring resistance.

The defrost thermostat should measure 0 ohms, when it is cold.
The defrost heater typically is less that 100 ohms

On some units you can force the fridge into a defrost cycle. Instructions on how to do this may be in your manual or the manufacturer may have placed a tech sheet behind the kick plate or taped to the back of the machine.


Here is a good site
Refrigeration Help Section, Fridges, refrigerators, not cold enough, frost free problems and how to test, noisy fan motors, clicking on and off compressors, door gaskets

[boozo]

I suggest you should check your defrost heater for possible defected heater and that may keep the main board to keep from going bad again.