[bybob]

Amana; 21.5 cu ft; (Mfg no. P1196701WW); bottom freezer; 12 years old; freezer control set at "3 3/4" producing temperature of 0 degrees F (setting 7 is coldest, 1 warmest).

3 days ago there was water on floor at front and ice cubes in freezer were wet.

Placed remote wireless electronic temperature sensor in freezer and recorded temperatures cycling between 43 F and 33 F. in ~10 minutes.

I removed the food from freezer and refrigerator to store in the "replaced old" cellar refrigerator :-)

Moved freezer control to 6 1/2, and temperatures cycled between 38 F and 24 F. in ~ 1/2 hour.

I have looked at "other" warm freezer posts and I saw one recommendation to replace the defrost timer and the defrost thermostat. Would that also be advised here?

Thanks in advance for considering my problem.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

Take the drawer out and check behind the back panel and see if there is an ice build up on the coils.

If there is then you have a defrost problem.

You will have to check the heater and defrost thermostat with an ohm meter to see if they are good.

If they are in working order the control in the fridge will have to be replaced.

Your fridge is an electronic model and does not have a mechanical timer.

Here is a link to your fridge model BX22S5W.

[bybob]

Sheila:
Many thanks for your assistance in helping to resolve my problem.

Since first posting my problem the freezer cooling cycle has been trending downward; e.g., 9/9/07 46 to 28F, 9/10/07 37 to 25, 9/11/07 34 to 21, 9/12/07 17 to 12, 9/13/07 9 to 6. The compressor shut down on its own at 11:04 AM and came back on at 11:36 AM indicating the defrost timer was functioning properly, with the temperature reaching 26 while shut down. At 1:42 PM it was back down to 6F, at which time I shut down the refrigerator for my investigative disassembly.

I took the freezer: drawer, ice maker, and back panel out. There was a very small amount of ice on the bottom of the coil fins. As this is day six of this situation, it is quite possible that there had been much more in the beginning which had by now melted.

The heating element measured 31 ohms which I assume is an acceptable value (while not knowing the specification value). Do you agree the heater is OK, or am I missing something?

The Bi-metal defrost thermostat measured 54 K ohms, which I take it to indicate the switch was “open” / “cut out” as it probably was above its “cut out” spec of 55 degrees F. (I didn’t know the spec at the time I was checking it, and in any event had no way to cool it to the “kick in” / “closed” value of 20 F to determine if it was functioning properly. Oops, not so … I could have put it in the “cellar” freezer to get it there. I am willing to order one from PartSelect if you agree that I have not done a valid test to prove it functioning.

Finally, you stated “If they are in working order the control in the fridge will have to be replaced. Are you referring to the Freezer Control in the freezer (PartSelect No. 160660/diagram No. 1101)? I will also order it if you agree it is the alternative to the defrost thermostat to get my machine working again.

Again, thank you for your past assistance, and thank you in advance for a reply to this thread.

bybob

[bybob]

Sheila:
Many thanks for your assistance in helping to resolve my problem.

Since first posting my problem the freezer cooling cycle has been trending downward; e.g., 9/9/07 46 to 28F, 9/10/07 37 to 25, 9/11/07 34 to 21, 9/12/07 17 to 12, 9/13/07 9 to 6. The compressor shut down on its own at 11:04 AM and came back on at 11:36 AM indicating the defrost timer was functioning properly, with the temperature reaching 26 while shut down. At 1:42 PM it was back down to 6F, at which time I shut down the refrigerator for my investigative disassembly.

I took the freezer: drawer, ice maker, and back panel out. There was a very small amount of ice on the bottom of the coil fins. As this is day six of this situation, it is quite possible that there had been much more in the beginning which had by now melted.

The heating element measured 31 ohms which I assume is an acceptable value (while not knowing the specification value). Do you agree the heater is OK, or am I missing something?

The Bi-metal defrost thermostat measured 54 K ohms, which I take it to indicate the switch was “open” / “cut out” as it probably was above its “cut out” spec of 55 degrees F. (I didn’t know the spec at the time I was checking it, and in any event had no way to cool it to the “kick in” / “closed” value of 20 F to determine if it was functioning properly. Oops, not so … I could have put it in the “cellar” freezer to get it there. I am willing to order one from PartSelect if you agree that I have not done a valid test to prove it functioning.

Finally, you stated “If they are in working order the control in the fridge will have to be replaced. Are you referring to the Freezer Control in the freezer (PartSelect No. 160660/diagram No. 1101)? I will also order it if you agree it is the alternative to the defrost thermostat to get my machine working again.

Again, thank you for your past assistance, and thank you in advance for a reply to this thread.

bybob

PS: But now (during the last 3 days) there are times when the temperature is as high as 16 F in the freezer for short periods before retuning to the ~ 0 F.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

It sounds like the defrost cycle is working fine.

Yes the control that is 1101 but with your fridge you will need the manufactures number which starts with p11 and then five numbers and two letters to make sure that you get the right control.

The only other concern that I have is there may be a leak in the sealed system.

When the fridge is running check the frost pattern on the coils in the freezer. It should be even and on all the coils.

It may be wise to watch the fridge for a few days and record when is starts up and shuts down and the temperatures.

You will not have to order the defrost thermostat.

[bybob]

Sheila:

Thank you again. I believe the machine is operating properly now.

I purchased, and installed the freezer temperature control (9/26/07).

The frost pattern on the coils seemed even and over all.

The freezer appears to be operating properly. With it loaded with food, the temperature range has narrowed over 5 days to +1.6/-5.7 and I have been adjusting the Temperature control setting to less cold settings ... 6 to 5 !/2 to 5 to 4.

bybob

PS: I have responded to one questioner relative to his defrost thermostat He said his "meter read infinity at high temp and 4 ohms at low, should it be replaced?"

I told him the Part Select specification for the unit is out at 55 and in at 20, and while not knowing the switch contact resistance spec 4 ohms did not seem unreasonable.

PPS: I tried to respond to a second questioner, but the message disappeared into cyberspace.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

His thermostat appears to be fine.

[bybob]

Sheila:
I have been tracking freezer temperatures as regularly as conditions allowed since installing the new temperature control.
It appears the temperature rises from -3/+3 to +17/+21 during defrost cycles with the ice maker “off”, and to + 25/+28 with the ice maker “on” (and making ice cubes).
Should I consider that to be normal operation?
If not, please advise of further action to be taken.
If yes, I guess I am finished with the repair, and I thank you once again, and I will then respond to the request for "Share Your Repair Story at PartSelect.com" and bid you goodbye until the next time.
bybob

[PS Staff - Sheila]

It sounds like the fridge is now working, best of luck until the next time.