[ah1]

Well, I just fixed my dryer, now this happened last night.

Don't know model number without doing some digging, but it was purchased in '85, it's a side by side. Ice and water in door, and it has a so-called computer above that, with diagnostics/system check button/error code display, door alarm, nightlight. It also has a small fold down beverage door on the fridge side, opens until out like a shelf. There is a hole leading from the freezer into that beverage compartment to keep them colder than the fridge temp. Shortly after new it had a recall on the compressor but has been working perfectly ever since.

I've never worked on or looked at how one of these actually worked yet, but when it is running, the freezer side sounds normal, when you open the door you can hear the air/blower/whatever just like normal, and it appears to keep things frozen. However the fridge side does not work. The fan/blower whatever starts to spool up, sounds normal, gets to about full speed, then just shuts off right before "normal" sound level. Most of the time it is off, it doesn't try to kick in very often, but the temperature is not right. I just did a little more with it, after having it unplugged a while, all temps warm, the fridge side barely started to kick in at all, then shut off, heard a little click underneath, almost sounded like a solenoid switch type thing kicking out, quiet though. Adjusting temp does nothing different. It has never been recharged or any work done other than right away. Suggestions on where to start?

Thanks again.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

If the fridge side is not cooling the vent that allow the cold air from the freeze in to the fridge section is likely block with ice.

The freezer section does all the cooling.

Open the freezer door and look in vent holes in the back wall of the freezer. If there is a build up of frost on the coil the fridge is not defrosting.

Are there any code being displayed in the control panel?

If there is no ice build up check the evaporator fan to see if it runs.

You model number should be on a tag with the serial number either behind the kick plate or in the fridge section.

[ah1]

Yeah, I see the number is on the door, I wasn't by it when I decided to write. The only number on it is TFX24FH, it doesn't say whether it's model or serial, but it says 23.5 cubic feet, no frost. The display says "normal". It only says "warm temp" when the freezer side isn't cold. It looks like the vents in the back are covered, would take some time to get to it to remove the panels in the back of the compartments. Looks like the whole back in the freezer, can't see anything. I was thinking it was a fan or something, as I mentioned the normal noise/motor that runs does not get up to full speed before it shuts down, it does not run for any length of time. I've had it unplugged for a few days, power often goes out for several days in the winter, so I didn't think it would hurt any more than that does, it still does the same thing right away, even when completely warm. The freezer side gets cold enough to freeze things, the fridge side does not get very cold, and there is no "fan noise" on the interior like normal when you open the door to look in, but the freezer side sounds normal, air blowing, if any of that makes sense. It's built in now, it will take me a few days to rip out a few things to get around to getting it out to look at more thoroughly. Whatever motor/fan that is not working right, it does start to spin up, then when it kicks out there is definitely a click noise, again like a solenoid switch type thing kicking out, does the same thing after unplugged for days. Thanks.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

Here is a link the the parts of your fridge model TFX24FH.

The number you got is the model number but it is missing the last digit.

The tag that will have the full model and serial number is likely behind the kick plate.

It will also have the type of refrigerant that is used and the manufactures name.

With the last digit you can get a more detailed breakdown of your fridge.

[ah1]

Thanks!!!!

[ah1]

GE TFX24FHB Parts List

I've basically got it so I can barely crawl behind it, not able to reach in there very good, but I can sort of see, tell you what I know so far. I got the back cardboard off. Fan 651 is the one that "tries" to kick in and fails. It tries repeatedly, waiting several seconds or a few minutes between attempts. It's not trying to run as long as it did when I first noticed the problem. The clicking noise I'm hearing when it cuts off is coming from 729/capacitor, or it may be directly ahead of that under the fridge further, but the noise is right there, I don't see anything else. I thought if it needed recharged it would run constantly and not cool. It's R12. Everything underneath has been cleaned off. Suggestions?

[PS Staff - Sheila]

You may have a faulty relay or start capacitor or the compressor may be bad.

You are right if the fridge is low on refrigerant it will run continually.

[ah1]

Is there any way I can test the capacitor/relay myself, or take it in? I don't see much point in replacing the compressor. 30 mile one way service call for a technician if I don't do it myself, time I do much messing around I'd have a good chunk of a new fridge. If I swap out the capacitor/relay, it looks like close to $100 as well to order, but I wouldn't mind that, if it would fix it. Thanks again.

[woodchuck]

test your parts here. Refrigerator Repair Guide: How To Fix a Refrigerator - ACME HOW TO.com