[swm20001]

My refrigerator stopped working and I have been all over the web getting info on how to test all of the various components and I am not sure if I have a bad compressor or not. I did an ohm's check on the compressor and I have 3.3 ohm between the com and run terminals. I have 5.1 ohm between the com and start terminals. I have 8.1 ohm between the start and run windings terminals. I checked the supply voltage and I have 120v at the compressor. I figured since I have the voltage after the starter-ptc then the starter-ptc is good but now I am not so sure. The compressor buzzes like a bad ballast for about 30 seconds and shuts off. Also this has a run capacitor and I tried to start the compressor without it and it still buzzes. I only tried this for a couple of seconds to try and troubleshoot it. I don't know if it should run without the capacitor or not. Everything else on the refrigerator is working:lights, fans and the defrost mode. I put it in a manual defrost and it shut the fans off and the compressor for about 25 min and then came out of it but the compressor started buzzing again. So now I am not sure what is bad but the freezer and refrigerator are not getting cold at all. Any help from a qualified person would be appreciated. I work in maintenance and have a very solid background in repairing machines but not appliances. Thank you.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

It sounds like it may be the capacitor.

Pry the capacitor from the relay.

Use a 500k ohm resistor for one minute.

Using the ohm meter set on Rx1000.

The needle should jump toward zero ohms and quickly move back to infinity.

If the needle does not move the capacitor is open.

If the needle reads a constant value at or near zero ohms, the capacitor is shorted out.

If the needle jumps toward zero and then moves back to a constant high resistance.the capacitor has a high resistance leak.

Here is a link to your fridge model WRS23W0AW9.