[bchesh]

We purchased a model home which is 5 years old. The Jenn-Air appliance has only 1 year of use since we purchased the new home last year. The digital display which has the digital clock and timers etc. can barely be seen during the day. At night, you can still barely see it. What do you think can be wrong. The oven is in the wall and has not been used that much in one year. The Jenn-Air microwave above it on the wall has a bright green digital display and I would
think that the oven should as well. My wife thinks that it was bright at one time.
Everything else works fine on the oven including the self clean etc.

Thank you.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

The clock will eventually need to be replaced.

Here is a link to your oven model JJW8530BAW.

[RobG2486]

Not long after we purchased ours, the display panel has fallen down. Almost as if double-sided taped was used to hold it up to begin with! Very dissatisfied with Jenn Air.

[Johninar]

I've just replaced the digital display in our built-in double oven for the 3rd time in 9 years.
It appears that Jenn-air has a lousy design, and has made no effort to fix it. There is good money in selling parts.

[jparizona]

I recently had the dreaded dim display problem on my Jenn Air wall oven. I read the posts about how often this problem occurs and the only solution proposed was to replace the display.

I have a background in digital electronics and decided to try to fix the display. Now this was possible because everything worked, just a dim display. In over 90% of the cases such as this the problem is a bad electrolytic capacitor. If your oven has other problems besides the dim display then don't waste you time.

I was just planning to replace all the electrolytics but when I took the display out I could see that one of the capacitors had over heated. I changed that capacitor and the display is working fine now.

Electrolytic capacitors are prone to this kind of failure and with the oven heat I am not surprised that this is a common occurrence.

A couple words of caution. If you don't know how to solder and repair circuit boards then you may have problems doing the repair yourself. I have many years experience doing this type of repair and I still had the circuit trace lift off the board. This is a low cost single sided board and de-lamination is a common occurrence during repair. I was able to repair the lifted circuit by soldering a jumper to replace it. Like I said don't try it if you don't know how to solder and repair circuit boards.

On the other hand, why spend $130 to $150 on a replacement clock/display when a capacitor costing less than a buck will fix it.

Good luck ......... JP

[racerock]

Originally Posted by jparizona

I recently had the dreaded dim display problem on my Jenn Air wall oven. I read the posts about how often this problem occurs and the only solution proposed was to replace the display.

I have a background in digital electronics and decided to try to fix the display. Now this was possible because everything worked, just a dim display. In over 90% of the cases such as this the problem is a bad electrolytic capacitor. If your oven has other problems besides the dim display then don't waste you time.

I was just planning to replace all the electrolytics but when I took the display out I could see that one of the capacitors had over heated. I changed that capacitor and the display is working fine now.

Electrolytic capacitors are prone to this kind of failure and with the oven heat I am not surprised that this is a common occurrence.

A couple words of caution. If you don't know how to solder and repair circuit boards then you may have problems doing the repair yourself. I have many years experience doing this type of repair and I still had the circuit trace lift off the board. This is a low cost single sided board and de-lamination is a common occurrence during repair. I was able to repair the lifted circuit by soldering a jumper to replace it. Like I said don't try it if you don't know how to solder and repair circuit boards.

On the other hand, why spend $130 to $150 on a replacement clock/display when a capacitor costing less than a buck will fix it.

Good luck ......... JP

Could not agree with you more. Like you I have an electronics background (EE with hands on design, troubleshooting of complex systems...) Fix things on cars and around the house all the time. Recently fixed a popping problem on my Pioneer Elite HDTV (known Problem) by resoldering a ton of pads on two boards. Used a solder sucker and wick to get the old solder out and re-flow new solder.

Any way - which capacitor did you replace?

I'm currently trying to troubleshoot mine down to what voltage is wrong, and if anyone has information for the following, I would appreciate it:

Oven working Fine, but Display very dim - can't read temp when turning on, but it does turn on and bake...

Very common failure, and most often it is the clock board/assy. However, there have been a few threads out there where the source of the problem was the Relay Board, or the wiring between. Saw where one person did fix it by reflowing the solder joints on the relay board connector.

I would like to get the pinout of the J1 and J2 connector for a WW30430W. I have the wiring diagram for the oven, but it does not have definition of the two cables. I believe J1 is a 4 wire, and J2 is an 8 wire.

J1 1-2 reads 13.4Vdc, and I've seen threads where it should be 9-12 Vdc as this provided the power for the display, or some sort of feedback to the relay board, not sure. I thought this is being regulated on the relay board, not sure. Hence I would like to get more information on J1 and J2.

I've also seen where there is a lower AC voltage on the J2, but I don't have the quanty of wires on the connector that the person had...

SO, any help would be appreciated, as I really don't like to buy a new board until I have confirmation of what the problem is. I've fixed plenty of boards in my life by determining what component failed and replacing.

Any help would be appreciated.

[scaf3556]

I have the same problem but the upper broiler coils don't work now as well. I saw that someone posted a similar problem. Do you think that the clock and this problem are related?

[Bethesdas]

Had the same problem (dim display first until it faded to nothing). I just replaced the control panel /clock - EXTREMELY easy to do and now all works fine.

Also, I received the part incredibly fast! Thank you PartSelect.

[tbates57]

Originally Posted by jparizona

I recently had the dreaded dim display problem on my Jenn Air wall oven. I read the posts about how often this problem occurs and the only solution proposed was to replace the display.

I have a background in digital electronics and decided to try to fix the display. Now this was possible because everything worked, just a dim display. In over 90% of the cases such as this the problem is a bad electrolytic capacitor. If your oven has other problems besides the dim display then don't waste you time.

I was just planning to replace all the electrolytics but when I took the display out I could see that one of the capacitors had over heated. I changed that capacitor and the display is working fine now.

Electrolytic capacitors are prone to this kind of failure and with the oven heat I am not surprised that this is a common occurrence.

A couple words of caution. If you don't know how to solder and repair circuit boards then you may have problems doing the repair yourself. I have many years experience doing this type of repair and I still had the circuit trace lift off the board. This is a low cost single sided board and de-lamination is a common occurrence during repair. I was able to repair the lifted circuit by soldering a jumper to replace it. Like I said don't try it if you don't know how to solder and repair circuit boards.

On the other hand, why spend $130 to $150 on a replacement clock/display when a capacitor costing less than a buck will fix it.

Good luck ......... JP

Same boat!!!
The original board lasted about 4-5 years until too dim to read and I replaced it. I inspected it carefully for apparent malfunctions but could see nothing evident so reluctantly popped for the $130 for a new board. 4-5 years later and the replacement is now also dimming to the point of uselessness.
Which capacitor did you replace? I'll look again for my old original board and email you a picture if you'd be willing to note the problem capacitor.
Thanks

[Cuong]

Originally Posted by racerock

Could not agree with you more. Like you I have an electronics background (EE with hands on design, troubleshooting of complex systems...) Fix things on cars and around the house all the time. Recently fixed a popping problem on my Pioneer Elite HDTV (known Problem) by resoldering a ton of pads on two boards. Used a solder sucker and wick to get the old solder out and re-flow new solder.

Any way - which capacitor did you replace?

I'm currently trying to troubleshoot mine down to what voltage is wrong, and if anyone has information for the following, I would appreciate it:

Oven working Fine, but Display very dim - can't read temp when turning on, but it does turn on and bake...

Very common failure, and most often it is the clock board/assy. However, there have been a few threads out there where the source of the problem was the Relay Board, or the wiring between. Saw where one person did fix it by reflowing the solder joints on the relay board connector.

I would like to get the pinout of the J1 and J2 connector for a WW30430W. I have the wiring diagram for the oven, but it does not have definition of the two cables. I believe J1 is a 4 wire, and J2 is an 8 wire.

J1 1-2 reads 13.4Vdc, and I've seen threads where it should be 9-12 Vdc as this provided the power for the display, or some sort of feedback to the relay board, not sure. I thought this is being regulated on the relay board, not sure. Hence I would like to get more information on J1 and J2.

I've also seen where there is a lower AC voltage on the J2, but I don't have the quanty of wires on the connector that the person had...

SO, any help would be appreciated, as I really don't like to buy a new board until I have confirmation of what the problem is. I've fixed plenty of boards in my life by determining what component failed and replacing.

Any help would be appreciated.

Which capacitor(s) did you replace to fix the problem with the dim display?