[Pinbyte]

Originally Posted by Wildfire

Hubby - did the tapping you suggested and it is working again

I am really happy that Wildfire was able to TEMPORARILY fix the problem by flicking the relay housing (a.k.a black cube) on the surface control unit. This is the 2nd report of this seemingly fixing the problem. Of the five people having the same problem as me and posting to this thread, two have reported that this solution worked, one found it unsuccessful, and two have not said either way.

I just want people to be safe and therefore I want to make it clear... you try this at your own risk. Be sure to unplug the range before trying this. If it fixes it, great, but remain wary that it is very likely that it will fail again. I don't want to be sued because I put what I thought was helpful advice out on the net. Sue Frigidaire!

That being said, if you are comfortable doing this and it 'fixes' the problem, it lends more evidence to my contention that this part is probably not well suited to do the job it is called upon to do reliably. I have a picture of the board with the suspected part indicated that I can send you if you request it via PM.

Also, even if you have never had the problem I and so many others have had, never let your guard down. All evidence thus far suggests, in my opinion, that this range is INHERENTLY unsafe. I am not saying it absolutely IS or Frigidaire might sue me, but all owners should err on the side of caution and be on their guard.

I am very interested to hear if more of you experienced the same thing that Wildfire did.

- Pinbyte

[jimmysaintjames]

I have the same problem, But my stove is a different model PLES389ECE. I cant figure it out at all. It seems to have a totaly different switch set up. If any one can help that would be a life saver. I have tried just about everything. I un-pluged the switch/knob conpletely for that burner, and it still comes on. Please help.

[pcqfixer]

I had the same problem with the Power board on my Frigidaire GLEF396CSB range. And the model # of the board is the same (316239400). The relays were not stuck after I removed the board and checked the circuit, so I swapped the K3 and K6 relays. Hopefully this will allow me to use the RF burner again, as this is the most used.. My guess is that the LF & Bridge will be the next ones to stick on.. Everything works fine after reinstalling the power board.. I told the wife, that we need to be super vigilant and never leave the kitchen unless we know for sure the burner is off. I flagged the power breaker so she knows which one to trip..

THANKS to everyone for the heads up

[Pinbyte]

Thanks for adding to the thread pcqfixer! I believe that makes you the 7th to post to this thread with the EXACT same problem I had. Please report it to the CPSC and UL.

I am not sure you swapped the correct relays, pcq. I just inspected the photos of the power board that I took and I belive it is the K5 relay that is the culprit. This is the one that appears to be powering the right front inner (RF inner) element that stuck on in my case.

It appears the RF inner relay (K5) also supplies the power to the RF outer relay (K6), so both must be on for the outer RF element to operate. Rather than swap K5 with another relay, just buy yourself a new one (or two or three).

The relay part number is RT314012F. I found it at Mouser electronics online for a measely $2.50. Anybody handy with a soldering iron could easily save well over a $100 just replacing the relay themselves (instead of buying a new power board).

In fact, I plan to order a few for myself to have on-hand for the next time the burner sticks on. And like you said, pcq, maybe the bridge and left front will go eventually (though I rarely use the bridge). DIYers, relay replacement is a cheap and easy fix... but still be on your guard because if it happened once, well.... you know.

- Pinbyte

[Pinbyte]

As they say a picture speaks a thousand words, I thought it would help the DIYers who have this problem to see what we have been talking about on this thread. The first picture shows the entire power board and I have outlined the relay which I think has malfunctioned in red.

In my case, the relay is marked as "Potter Bromfield" with the part number:
RT314012F
Data on the part can be found with a simple Google search. I actually found it at Mouser and there was a link to the data sheet which is on Tyco Electronics site. Tyco sells parts under many different brand names.

I have also included a more close-up picture of the area where the relay is, and also marked, in red, the connections to the right front innner and outer elements that could be disconnected to disable the burner.

If you decide to disconnect, be aware that this is a 3-leg 240 VAC circuit and that the disconnected leads are still HOT! Do this with the range unplugged and then wrap the ends of the leads in electrical tape.

If you are up to making the repair, order the relay and at least one spare. I am a menace with a soldering iron, but I think even I could handle this repair. There is this stuff called 'solder wick' or 'solder braid' that sucks up solder so you can remove the part and make way for the new one. I'm not going to give a tutorial on this, but there are plenty of resources on the net. Patience and dexterity are key (I have little of the former and none of the latter).

Anyway, so the pictures and the info are there. I am pleased to see that several DIYers have gotten a bit of a handle on this already. I wish I did not have to see more, but I expect there to be. If only 1% who have had this problem actually posted to this thread, that suggests there may be hundreds of people affected. If a few are helped it will have been worth the effort.

Of course, please be careful...

- Pinbyte

[Pinbyte]

Originally Posted by jimmysaintjames

I have the same problem, But my stove is a different model PLES389ECE. I cant figure it out at all. It seems to have a totaly different switch set up. If any one can help that would be a life saver. I have tried just about everything. I un-pluged the switch/knob conpletely for that burner, and it still comes on. Please help.

Hello Jimmy, I wish I could help... but your range is designed entirely differently from mine (I did look into it- wiring diagrams and parts list on Frigidaire's site). Still, I thank you for the input to this thread. I think you should start a thread of your own as it will be more likely to get the attention of PartSelect people like Sheila who may know what to do for your model.

Also, if you believe your range poses a safety hazard, and it sounds like it does, you should file with the CPSC and UL... it takes hardly any time at all. Best of luck,

- Pinbyte

[donwick888]

I have the Frigidaire Range, Model # PLEF398ACA, Serial # VF22811947. The right, front inner element will not turn off. I have reported to CPSC. We are having to use the Circuit Breaker to turn the stove off.

[Pinbyte]

Originally Posted by donwick888

I have reported to CPSC.

Thank you donwick for reporting this. I think you are the 8th person with my exact same problem to add to this thread. I hope the others reported it also, this way the evidence that we have a potentially dangerous product will mount. Best regards,

- Pinbyte

[3wire]

Wow, I had no idea people were having the same issues with PLEF398CCC as I have. My right front burner remains lighted, only way to resolve the problem pulling the circuit breaker or the plug.

I just wound up for the second time in less than 3 years ordering a new surface control board.

I did make a report to Underwritters Laboratories and the CPSC.

[3wire]

Wow, I had no idea people were having the same issues with PLEF398CCC as I have. My right front burner remains lighted, only way to resolve the problem pulling the circuit breaker or the plug.

I just wound up for the second time in less than 3 years ordering a new surface control board.

I did make a report to Underwritters Laboratories and the CPSC.