[stephennmcdonald]

Hi all,

My stepfather recently upgraded our electrical panel for us as a gift. When reconnecting everything, he blew a breaker (read: sparks briefly flew) hooking the oven line back up (still not really sure how he did that). Since then, our range display (and thus oven) doesn't work.

What does work:

- All 4 surface units heat fine (this is a glass-top electric range).
- The "element on" indicator lights do *not* work...EXCEPT when you turn the dial from the off position to any on position. There is a brief flash of light on the "element on" indicator and then it is back off, even if you leave the elements on.

What does not work:

- The entire LCD display is non-functional at all times. Since this controls the oven and broiler, both are out of commission.
- There are two indicator lights, "warm cooktop" and "element on". When turning any rangetop knob, the 'element on' light flashes, otherwise both are non-functional. The blink of the light and the functional rangetop lead me to believe the problem is in the range itself, not the line running to it. However a friend told me he may have reversed the polarity at the breaker (while I do understand what reverse polarity means, I'm not sure how this is possible).

As a computer technician, I have no problem looking at electronics, so I unplugged the range and took off the back panels - saw no obvious shorts, popped capacitors, burn spots, etc. I re-seated as many connections as I could easily reach, plugged it back in, and it's still the same. I couldn't find any obvious fuses inside the machine itself that I could replace. I lifted the glass cooktop and looked there and behind the range for any possible shorts or pinches in the wiring but nothing obvious jumped out at me. The main wiring to the plug connects to the base of the range fine, and all connections are right.

At the advice of a friend, I ordered a replacement control panel (I'm not sure what it's called - the motherboard of the range that goes behind the knobs and houses the LED for the clock - a T-09 I believe?) and hooked that up - same problem still existed, which has now put me against a wall, I'm completely out of ideas here.

I would like to fix this myself, if possible, as the holidays have left us very short on cash, and I've already blown $80 on a new control panel. ANY direction or information that I could research here would be extremely helpful. I have the instructions and wiring diagrams handy and can give any more information needed (though I'm nowhere near an electrician, I am comfortable doing as much as I can and researching that which I don't know).

Thanks all for taking the time to read this and/or helping. It is greatly appreciated!

Stephen

[kayakcrzy]

I looked up your model #, and the picture on the product is not in good detail. Take the back off the oven, and of course cut the power. What we are looking for is a thermal cut out. It is the size of a half a doolar, and has 2 wires coming to it. I don't know if the product has one, but if it does it could stop the clock from getting power. If it does have it, take the 2 wires off and put them together, and put a little tape on it, so it does not hit metal, and turn the power on and see if the clock comes on. I could be reached at my web site, at ApplianceEducator.com Tom

[stephennmcdonald]

Thanks very much for the reply, I did not know what a thermal cut-out switch was before you posted, but looking at pictures of them online, I will take apart the back and see if I can find any. A blown fuse was my first thought as to the problem, so that makes me feel good that I may have just missed it based on style. I will check for it, and if I can still not get it to work, will contact you via your site for some more advice

Thanks again for taking the time to respond...wish me luck!

[kayakcrzy]

Let me know what you find. Tom