[davidt11373]

The broiler always stays on with the coil hot while the oven control knob shows "OFF". (although not to full broil temperature, a steak could not be broiled in this manner)

The problem still remained after I replaced the control-Range, which is the electronic control with clock face and timer (Whirlpool part #3196967, Illus. #12 on parts list diagram). And the problem remained after I replaced the sensor-oven (Whirlpool part#8273902, Illus. #27 on parts list diagram), which is the sensor in the oven. Both of these parts were replaced simultaneously while the problem remained.

I have considered replacing the Back-Main (Whirlpool part #8272922, Illus. #22 on parts list diagram), which is also called rear cover.

I do not know use of a multi-tester well, but best I could tell, continuity test was good with audible reading and read all the way to right at 0 ohms and power turned off for circuits leading from broiler coil (blue wire) which split into two red wires which connected to burners. Other circuit from small metal post on Back-Main (Rear Cover) with quick connecter to blue wire to plug in control-Range (electronic control) also was ok on continuity test also, BUT small metal post was broken off the Back-main. Is this small metal post also a broiler sensor, or in other words, a sensor of some type which would tell the broiler to shut off because the sensor, while feeling heat, tells the control to turn off the broiler?

Would replacing the Back-Main (rear cover) and reconnecting the quick connector to the small metal post on the Back-Main so the circuit is continuous from the small metal post all the way to the blue wire and the plug in the control-range fix the problem?

I do not think welding the small metal post on the back-Main would help. It may not hold the weld when the quick connector is pushed on.

Or does it sound more like a wiring harness problem? I cannot find the short circuit other than the small metal post broken off the back-main. I am not that familiar with use of the multi-tester. And sparks have come out of the Control-Range.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

You may have a bad ground and are getting a feed back.

You should have a qualified technician check this out.

Here is a link to the parts of your range model FES330KN0.

[davidt11373]

I am hoping Sheila or other person can comment. Sheila stated range may have bad ground and getting feedback and that a qualified technician should diagnose. BUT I live a rural area, and for 4 weeks in a row, I have not been able to get Whirlpool/Roper Technician to come, so I believe I believe I will have to try to fix it myself.

Is the Back-main (also called rear cover) the ground for the broiler? Could the blue wire be the ground wire? See my previous posted message well below. (I realize this blue wire is not an obvious green ground wire). Where is ground and ground wire for the Broiler if it is not this blue wire?

Could the ground wire be the blue wire that goes from small metal post on Back-Main (Rear Cover) connected with quick connecter to blue wire to plug in control-Range (electronic control)? Is the small metal post on the Back-main the ground for the Broiler? Would replacing the Back-Main repair the ground by reconnecting the blue wire with a quick connector to the new intact small metal post on Back-main?

See excerpt from my previous message below before Sheila replied.

I have considered replacing the Back-Main (Whirlpool part #8272922, Illus. #22 on parts list diagram), which is also called rear cover.
I do not know use of a multi-tester well, but best I could tell, continuity test was good with audible reading and read all the way to right at 0 ohms and power turned off for circuits leading from broiler coil (blue wire) which split into two red wires which connected to burners. Other circuit from small metal post on Back-Main (Rear Cover) with quick connecter to blue wire to plug in control-Range (electronic control) also was ok on continuity test also, BUT small metal post was broken off the Back-main. Is this small metal post also a broiler sensor, or in other words, a sensor of some type which would tell the broiler to shut off because the sensor, while feeling heat, tells the control to turn off the broiler?
Would replacing the Back-Main (rear cover) and reconnecting the quick connector to the small metal post on the Back-Main so the circuit is continuous from the small metal post all the way to the blue wire and the plug in the control-range fix the problem?
I do not think welding the small metal post on the back-Main would help. It may not hold the weld when the quick connector is pushed on.
Or does it sound more like a wiring harness problem? I cannot find the short circuit other than the small metal post broken off the back-main. I am not that familiar with use of the multi-tester. And sparks have come out of the Control-Range.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

The blue wire is the power wire from the clock to the broil element.

The ground is always green or copper.

[davidt11373]

Should I be looking for a bad ground with a green wire or copper wire for the entire range? I see green wires where the wire from the 4 prong 220 volt plug is connected, and also from the harness going up beneath the burners. Is it more likely a bad ground or bad ground wire that is causing the problem?

I am hoping Sheila or other person can comment.
.
There is one circuit leading from broiler coil (blue wire) which splits into two red wires which connected to burners.

Other circuit from small metal post on Back-Main (Rear Cover) with quick connecter to blue wire to plug in control-Range (electronic control) might be related to broiler but I am not sure.

Do you have any comments about replacing the Back-main so the small metal post will be intact? What is the purpose of the small metal post previously described?