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Whrlpl Dryer runs but No heat

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"Dryer runs, but no heat. I have removed and checked all of the thermostats, 2 ..."


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Whrlpl Dryer runs but No heat
Old 06-02-2007, 01:50 PM   #1
softball910
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Question Whrlpl Dryer runs but No heat
Model Number: LER4634EQ0
Age: 5 - 10 years

Dryer runs, but no heat. I have removed and checked all of the thermostats, 2 on the heat element duct, and what appear to be 2 more on the lint duct. They all read short/direct continuity at room temp. I also read out the heating element coil and got about 10-12 ohms, should it have read 0 ohms?

The internal interconnecting wiring and connectors are all in good conditon(no corrosion, no fraying, no signs of arcing or excessive dust/dirt build up. I cleaned and reseated all connections anyway.)

The one thing I have not found any info on or have an idea how to check is the mode selector/timer control. I did read where it seems that that the different modes operate thru diff. thermostats via the mode selected on the switch, so I tried all of the modes to see if one generated heat which would help point to a thermostat, but no-joy. None of the diff. mode selections produced any heat. So is there a way to verify the mode selector switch? I did reseat all connections on it and visually it is in good cond same as the wiring.

I may already have the answer but would like to be sure because I don't think electrical components are returnable and that mode selector costs a bit more than a case or two of beer(Ha-Ha).
 
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Old 06-02-2007, 03:25 PM   #2
tomallbee
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if your dryer is 220 volts there are 2 fuses, 1 for the motor, 1 for the heat.
i have seen this problem before and it is usually a blown fuse on the heat side.
i would check for 110 v. on each power wire.
the element should not read 0 ohms, it is the resistance that creates the heat.
 
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Thanks for the info
Old 06-02-2007, 04:51 PM   #3
softball910
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Default Thanks for the info

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomallbee View Post
if your dryer is 220 volts there are 2 fuses, 1 for the motor, 1 for the heat.
i have seen this problem before and it is usually a blown fuse on the heat side.
i would check for 110 v. on each power wire.
the element should not read 0 ohms, it is the resistance that creates the heat.
Hi tb, thx for the info, are the fuses located in a diff area fm the thermostats? Not sure what it looks like.
 
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