[bgreene]

Can't get the dryer to blow hot - dispite changing all these parts:

1. Timer switch - 3976568
2. Heater coil ( likely didn't need to switch )
3. Heater coil fuse 3390291
4. Other fuse......on / off in case it was stuck open

Getting 220v in from wall, 220 coming into dryer.
Measuring 220v at the wires above the coil section, but not getting 220v into the coil. Measuring nothing there.

Have $ 150 in non refundable parts into it, and can't figure it out.
( wires look fine )

Help !!

[kayakcrzy]

Real simple to check without a meter. Here we go. Unplug the dryer, and take the back panel off. Once the panel is off on the right side, you will see the heater assembly. On top of the heater assembly is the thermal fuse. Take the two wires off, and jump them out. put a little tape around it, so it does not hit any metal. Then plug it in. If the heat comes on replace the thermal fuse. If not replace the element. Also check your breaker, and make sure it is not partially tripped. Voltage goes through the path of least resistance. So, therefore, the unit will run , but no heat. If you have a meter, pull off one wire, and check for ohms, if you get a reading it is good. if not it is bad, same with the heater. If you need me you can reach me at my web site at ApplianceEducator.com Tom

[bgreene]

Actually did replace the thermal fuse on the coil - the coil itself, the timer as per above, but not blowing hot.

Wires coming into the coil fuse do not show voltage, while above the coil do show 220v +.

So, can't figure why the wires aren't carrying the voltage down the 220 + lines ?

[kayakcrzy]

Ok, if you have a meter, lets do it right. The first thing you need to check is the voltage coming to the plug terminal block. If you take the plate off, and check from the far left to the far right, you should read 240 volts. from the far left to the center, you should read 120 volts, and from the the far right to the middle, you should also read 120 volts. Now if you have all that. Unplug the dryer, and take off the back panel. Now put your meter on ohms, and pull one wire of the element, ans check for continuity, if you get a reading it is good, if you don't replace it. Now check the high limit thermostat, which is just above the the heating element terminal, pull one wire off, and check for continuity, if you get it its is good, if you don't replace it. Now go to the cycling thermostat, you should have four wires coming to it, check for continuity from the right side terminal to the left side terminal, if you get a reading it is goiod, if you don't it is bad. If everything I just told you checked to be good, you have a bad motor switch on the motor, so you would have to replace the motor. If you need anything else reach me at my web site at ApplianceEducator.com. Tom

[k1nyk]

Originally Posted by bgreene

Actually did replace the thermal fuse on the coil - the coil itself, the timer as per above, but not blowing hot.

Wires coming into the coil fuse do not show voltage, while above the coil do show 220v +.

So, can't figure why the wires aren't carrying the voltage down the 220 + lines ?

In the rare event, that you still have a problem with your dryer, here's a word of caution. Our Whirlpool dryer also had no heat which turned out to be caused by a wire that worked it's way off the heat control somehow from the machine vibration I suppose. The serious part was that it had arced against the sheet metal under the temperature control and burned thru the sheet metal. Fortunately, the metal became so oxidized that no more arcing, house fire, etc. occurred! My wife had noticed a "lightning flash" when closing the door. Whirlpool's technician thot that was due to low humidity in the house. Just a word to the wise.

[k1nyk]

Originally Posted by bgreene

Actually did replace the thermal fuse on the coil - the coil itself, the timer as per above, but not blowing hot.

Wires coming into the coil fuse do not show voltage, while above the coil do show 220v +.

So, can't figure why the wires aren't carrying the voltage down the 220 + lines ?

FYI on the above: In the rare event, that you still have a problem with your dryer, here's a word of caution. Our Whirlpool dryer also had no heat which turned out to be caused by a wire that worked it's way off the heat control somehow from the machine vibration I suppose. The serious part was that it had arced against the sheet metal under the temperature control and burned thru the sheet metal. Fortunately, the metal became so oxidized that no more arcing, house fire, etc. occurred! My wife had noticed a "lightning flash" when closing the door. Whirlpool's technician thot that was due to low humidity in the house. Just a word to the wise.