[mattdogg02]

First the problem, everything seems to be working with the dryer except for the heating part.

I pulled the heating element and tested it... am getting a resistance reading of like ~1 Ohm... I know I should be getting infinite if its bad right?

So I tested the Hi-Limit Thermostat and the Thermal Fuse, and got continuity on both (at cool). So to me this means that it should be turning on the heating element if it was working right, so I should at least have some heat? I believe it is the heating element, but the non infinite reading is throwing me off.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Matt

[awiblish]

You can measure voltage on your heating element while the dryer is running. BE CAREFULL. You should have 220 there. If you do and it still is not getting hot your heating element is most likely bad. You should have some resistance there because the element is coiled.

[bettyboop]

What about the operating thermostat, it has to work too? Do you have 240 volts at the terminal on the back where the cord ataches? Maybe a wire burned off.

[denman]

Here's a link with parts and wiring
Maytag PYE3200AYW

When measuring continuity/ohms always disconnect one side of the device before measuring. This prevents getting a measurement thru an alternate current path

Are you using the lowest ohms scale when checking your heater element.
It should be around 12 ohms. (voltage squared divided by wattage)
If it is 1 ohm it means it would pull 240 amps and blow your breaker

Besides things mentioned earlier you still have the motor centrifugal switch, heat selector switch and timer contacts

The most likely is the operating thermostat
When measuring this device make sure you are measuring across the contacts and not the internal heater

Put the unit into timed dry, full heat, wrinkle control off

Your circuit path should be
L2, Motor Cent. Switch, Heating Element, Safety Thermostat, Thermostat contacts, Heat Selector Switch (L1-C), Timer contacts (L-H), L1

[mattdogg02]

denman thanks, it was a typo, it was actually reading like 11 ohms. Got a new high limit thermostat and heating element and replaced both, still no heat coming in.

Think I'm just going to call a service guy since the wife is giving me the heat about getting it fixed quick.

[daboyerksbceh]

Matt, heating elements are in themselves "resistors" with a specified ohms per length in new condition. The ohm reading will degrade with age (use) of the element but will not be significant if the element will still produce heat in intended parameters. Check what the ohm rating is for your model element and compare. Also, some electric dryers have more than one thermo-overload. Check to see if any are open circuit (I had a Maytag dryer with 5 thermo safeties, the one in the fan duct was the problem). You probably already know all this, but maybe will stear you to hidden thermo-safeties. Good luck.

[bettyboop]

There are 2 thermostats,1 is the operating thermostat that operates the heat, the hi-limit is a thermostat that keeps a bad operating thermostat from overheating, to make heat you have to have a thermal, operating & hi-limit thermostat, heating element,working motor safety switch and timer, and 240 volts.
leave out any one and no HEAT!!!!!!!!!

[mattdogg02]

Alright, so here is an update... still not fixed. Had the service guy come out and said it was a timer, we noticed it didn't run on timed dry, but ran on auto dry... so I told him I would order the part and use the auto dry for now. Well 20 min into the first load it stopped, and wouldn't run at all. So I install the timer today, still no go, then I notice the light doesn't even work. So, I short the thermal fuse leads to see if it will work then (along with testing the fuse, which is bad, no continuity at room temperature), which turns the light back on, but the dryer still doesn't start. Anyone with any ideas? Could it just be that 1 thermal fuse that is causing the problem?

[mattdogg02]

ok, so got the new thermal fuse in, everything is working, the only thing was I had to turn the timer upside down compared to the original to get the drying cycles to line up with the dryer schematic on the front... is that normal?