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Substitue thermal fuse?

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"My dryer will not start and I found that the thermal fuse has no continuity. ..."


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Substitute thermal fuse?
Old 01-05-2008, 05:28 PM   #1
dryerfix800
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Default Substitute thermal fuse?
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My dryer will not start and I found that the thermal fuse has no continuity. The part is 3392519, but the local Sears store was out and said that part 3390719 is the replacement. It is shaped differently, including where the screw goes. This new part has other numbers, "G4AP0401" where the old one had "G4AP0500." Can I use this fuse to make the dryer run until I can get the exact new part? Thanks. Tom

Last edited by dryerfix800 : 01-05-2008 at 06:50 PM. Reason: Correct spelling
 
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Old 01-05-2008, 06:18 PM   #2
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I forgot to include this information in my post that might help if someone knows something about what i am trying to do here. This is a Kenmore, model 11.96585210 series 80, and I believe it is about ten years old. It was working fine, then just would not start. I tested the door switch and start button and both appeared to have continuity. This thermal fuse did not. Then, I taped the two wires together (without the fuse and when it was unplugged of course) and it started after I plugged it in. So, I am confident this is the problem, but just am wondering about using this other fuse for a few days. Thanks for any help. Tom
 
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Old 01-06-2008, 12:31 AM   #3
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Are you for real? If the autherized sears dealer says it's a replacement part, put it on and forget it
 
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Old 01-06-2008, 02:56 AM   #4
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If only the part number was different, I would not be concerned. But the shape of the plastic is different and the screw holes are different. Therefore, I have to drill two new holes in the back of the dryer to mount it. The lady behind the counter at Sears did not seem to know as much about dryers as I did, and I doubt that this is really a replacement part. That is why I am asking whether it is okay to use a thermal fuse that is not an exact fit Thanks for any help with the question. The picture below on the left is like the part that came out and the one on the right is the one she said would work. See how different they are? Tom
Attached Images
File Type: jpg old part.jpg (14.2 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg so-called replacement.jpg (15.6 KB, 8 views)
 
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Old 01-06-2008, 06:42 AM   #5
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you missed the 0 in your model no it should start 110. ,but anyway if you go here you can get the exact replacement Partselect.com - Whirlpool Dryer Parts And All Brands of Appliance Parts
 
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Old 01-06-2008, 12:47 PM   #6
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It is not a great idea to be drilling holes in your dryer unless you have no other choice. I would return the part to Sears and order a new one.
The fuse must be placed so that you have the proper thermal contact.
Also going by the manufacturers number, odds are good that the new fuse has a lower trip point

If at all possible I always have the part with me when I go to buy a part.
More than once the parts person came back to me with a part which did not match the one I had in my hand.
 
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Old 01-06-2008, 01:03 PM   #7
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Thanks everyone for the input. I will play it safe and get the right part tomorrow. I just hope whatever caused this fuse to break will not break the next one. Anything other parts I should test before installing the new fuse? Thanks again. Tom
 
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Old 01-06-2008, 05:45 PM   #8
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Fuse blows due to overheating and the most common cause of this is impeded air flow
1. give the inside of the unit a good cleaning
2. check your fan/blower in case it is loose/cracked. If it is dirty clean it. Dirty fan blades can cut air flow by 30%
3. clean your vent system and make sure the exterior flap/vent assembly works properly
4. install the new fuse and check the air output and temperature from the dryer without hooking it up to your vent system. Put a pair of panty hose over the vent cause it will probably blow some loose dirt out at the start, this will keep the lint from blowing all over after a couple minutes you can take them off to check air flow.
5. hook it up to the vent system, go outside and make sure you have good air flow. Should be close to the amount you had when you ran it disconnected from the vent
 
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Old 01-12-2008, 12:31 AM   #9
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Denman, Thanks a lot for the help. Before putting the dryer back together, I used my shop vac to blow out the vent tube and the exhuast through the attic and also ensured that the blower worked right. I got the exact fuse I needed and it has worked well since. Thanks again. Wonder how much I saved by buying the $15 part and doing it myself? Tom
 
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Old 01-26-2008, 01:57 AM   #10
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I'm baaaaack. After three weeks of good service out of the thermal fuse, the dryer stopped working again. I am guessing it is the same fuse, but now must find why it is blowing the fuse. I had checked the venting before and it was all clear. Not sure what to do now, but I think it is time to replace the thing, unless someone knows of a quick fix.

Does anyone know what year this model is, 110.96585210, and how many cubic feet it has? We cannot recall when we bought it but believe it is at least 10 years old. Also knowing how big (cubic feet) it is will help us when we shop. Thank you. Tom
 
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