[leapn1]

The dryer was running on "Timed Dry" and I rotated the timer to "Automatic Cotton" without opening the door to shut it off first. The dryer shut off as soon as I rotated the timer dial past "off" to "Automatic cotton". Obviously, this resulted in a surge which caused a problem. I called whirlpool and they told me it sounds like something that would reset. They told me to leave it off for 30 seconds and it would reset automatically. Well that didn't work. Since this machine is showing no signs of anything powering up, some kind of a reset or fuse seems logical. I already checked the fuse, it looked fine. I replaced it anyway. I also replaced a thermal cutoff - stab in the dark. The breaker on the fuse box outside which is dedicated to the dryer, never tripped. This dryer has always worked flawlessly. This was the first time I ever rotated the timer across the "off" to another setting while the dryer was operating. Unless there is another way to reset it, or another fuse, I'm thinking timer, but I'm convinced this is something simple, and I would like to fix it myself, and I was hoping I could avoid having to get a VOM meter (which I have never used before) and going through all that tedium to find the problem. I'm hoping that this scenario has a typical solution that one of you can explain to me - thereby avoiding the dreaded VOM meter. Your input would be appreciated. Thanks!

[denman]

I do not have a wiring diagram for your unit so the following is a bit of a guesstimate

Did you turn your breaker on/off a couple times slowly?
They can trip without showing it.

I assume the thermal fuse you replaced was the one on the blower. Correct?
Rotate the dryer drum forward and backward a couple revolutions.
Could be the quick on/off/on you did messed up the centrifugal switch mechanism on the motor

Put the unit in timed dry/ no heat, does the timer now run?

As far as a VOM, I suggest you buy one. You can get a decent digital meter for under $20.00. You do not need a fancy one. Is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. You would have paid for it already by not buying unnecessary parts.
It is not unheard of to get a part that is defective from the factory. I always check parts before installing saves ripping the unit apart a second time.

You could double check the thermal fuse by shorting the wires together, taping them up so they cannot short and giving that a try. A meter is a much safer way of doing this.

[kayakcrzy]

leapn1, let me help you out. Make sure your breakers are not tripped, flip them off, and flip them on. Check the dryer, and see if it heats. If not. Unplug the dryer,and take the back off, and you will see a part the is white in color, and is about, an inch and a half long, and a half inch wide. It will have to wires coming to it, and will be held in place by 1 1/4 in screw. What I want you to do is take the two wires off, and put them together, and then put a little tape around the terminals, so it does not hit any metal. Then plug the dryer in, and turn it on. If it works, replace that part. It is a thermal fuse. Do not run the dryer with out it. This is just a way to check the dryer if you don't have a meter. If you need me you can reach me at my web site at www.applianceeducator.com Tom

[leapn1]

I already posted an in depth reply. Where did it go?

I turned the breaker on and off several times - no effect. I replaced the part no. 3392519 Thermal Fuse on the blower side and Part No. 3399848 Thermal Cut−Off.

Whirlpool Product Literature Search Results

I rotated the drum back ond forth several times. I set the timer to "no heat fluff" setting. I have already taped the two leads to the fuse together and tried that - still I'm getting nothing - no noise - no spark - no movement - nada - zip. Tomorrow is my last chance to fix this thing - wife imposed deadline - must be fixed or we're buying a new dryer. Am I going to have to buy a VOM meter?

Thaniks

[leapn1]

I don't get this. I have posted 4 repies now and none of them are showing.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

Because you put a link in your post it was moderated and would not show until OKed by the administration.

As a test and only a test you can jump the thermal fuse out of the circuit.

Join the two wires on the fuse together and see if the dryer will run.

The thermal fuse that I am referring to is on the blower housing.

You said the you replace the fuse to the dryer.

There should be two fuses in your fuse panel for the dryer.

If you only replace one replace the other.

Here is a link to your dryer model rel4634bw2.

[denman]

Do you have a wiring diagram so you can check the below since I do not have a schematic
If not, look in the control console, it may be there

In order to get heat the motor must be running.
The motor runs on 120 volts, the heater on 240 volts
We do not know if you have either in the machine
Would need a meter to check this!!

The reason I asked you to try timed dry is normally the path is:
Neutral - TM/N timer contacts - Timer Motor - L/M timer contacts - L1
It bypasses a fair amount of circuitry and the timer normally will run till it times out.
But you said the timer did not run. I would suspect the L/M timer contacts.
Could jumper them and try it, but would be easier with a meter!!

Your start circuit is:
Neutral - Thermal Fuse - Door Switch - Motor run & start windings - Start Switch - L/M timer contacts - L1

You have tried a bunch of stuff that makes sense
May be time to try something that makes no sense
Try shorting your door switch and start switch connectors

Again using a meter would be easier!!!