[kyelzbub]

My Whirlpool Senseon is not producing heat on any cycle. Every so often it will work for two or three loads, but then it won't work again for a couple of days. I have replaced the thermal fuse, and the thermistor. I have checked the thermostats for continuity and they passed. I have not found a break anywhere on the element, nor have I found any burned out connections. I have even checked the breakers. I am really at a loss here as to what could be causing this.
I am not getting an error code on the digital read out, but what I do notice is that when I start the dryer, the light on Sensing flashes once and then switches right over to Wet. Typically it would sense for awhile, and then switch to Wet.
Any ideas as to what this could be?

[PS Staff - Sheila]

Check the sensor at the back of the inside of the dryer.

Wash it off, sometimes there is a build up from fabric softener sheet.

Here is a link to your dryer model GEX9868JT0.

[kyelzbub]

Well, I cleaned the sensor, checked continuity on everyone, pulled all the connections and cleaned them, and I got heat for about 3 days. Now it is not working again. Any other possibilities?

[PS Staff - Sheila]

There has to be a bad connection somewhere.

If you use the timed cycle the sensor at the back of the drum is not used.

Does the dryer motor stop to or just the heat?

You may have to use a volt meter to find where you are loosing the voltage.

[kyelzbub]

Tried the timed cycle with not results. Sounds like I need a voltage meter. When I check the voltage, what voltage am I looking for to tell me something is good, and what voltage am I looking for to tell me its bad? Do I test this like I check continuity by removing the wires from the circuit, or do I keep the wires on?

[kyelzbub]

I went and got a multi-meter. I am now not sure what I am looking for. I did test the plug-in with the voltage meter, and it is reading 240 where it should and 120 where it should. Then I started the machine to test the thermostat and so on. I didn't really get a reading that I understood. Everything jumped around from as high as 4 to as low as -2. Then I tried to use the ohm meter selection to test for continuity again. The only thing that I noticed was that everything read 0 when tested. The only thing that showed a different reading was the thermistor. The thermistor read as low as -545. I am not sure what to make of this because I just replaced this piece with a new thermistor. Could this be an issue with the circuit board that it connects to?
Am I even testing with the voltage meter right?

[PS Staff - Sheila]

It sound like the problem is in the electronic board.

If it is heating sometimes and not others then it would not be the heating element or the thermostats or the thermistor.

These things either work or they don't.

[kyelzbub]

Okay, well one last question before I decide this is a job for a pro. I just did one last continuity test on all the components. As usual, everything made the tester light shine bright. The only exception this time was the thermostat. The thermostat would make the tester light up, but it was very, very dim. Would this be a sign of resistance and the need to change the thermostat? Is it possible that the thermostat would have worked intermittently, and then just went kaput?

[PS Staff - Sheila]

Which thermostat is this and where is it located.

[kyelzbub]

Is there any way for me to test the electronic board myself? I have done a visual on it and have not found anything that looks fried or burned. Other than this I am not sure of another way to test it.