[DanielB1431]

Conversion Kit # PS73775 shows Item 1 PLUG, BLOCKING (LPG REGULATOR). I'm not sure where it is installed. Is that what I'm seeing on the top right of the #16 gas valve in the parts drawing? Also, does the dryer's gas valve provide pressure regulation or must a special external regulator be used?

[AmpDraw]

The regulator is usually part of the gas valve on these. Changing it from NAT to LP is extremely easy. I'm new to this site so I don't know where your getting or seeing the parts break down from you're looking at, do you have a link?

You're conversion kit should have came with an instruction sheet, however, typicaly there is a small cap on the gas valve body that unscrews off. A plastic screw looking piece is then down inside there, probably white plastic. That unscrews out, you pull the little spring out and drop the ne LP spring down in there, then screw the new plastic piece (probably black) down in. Screwing that piece in or out is what adjusts your gas pressure, this is where your instruction sheet will help the most because it will tell you how many turns to take it in. If you're only option is to guess then go 1/2 way since most people don't have a manometer to measure their gas pressure with.

Next you need to change the oriface on the end of the burner. This will be the little brass looking piece in your kit. Unscrew the existing one out, screw the new one in, if you get them mixed up, the LP one is the one with the smaller hole.

To make sure the gas pressure is adjusted right you'll need to look at the flame if you don;t have a manometer. If the flame is lifting up off the burner your getting too much gas, not enough air (air is fixed on most of these), so turn the gas pressure down about 1/2 to one turn at that plastic piece you screwed in there. If the flame is yellow (not orange, but yellow) on the tips then you have too much gas and not enough air, you'll need to adjust the gas pressure down.

Its important to make sure you get the gas pressure adjusted correctly, lifting flames from not enough gas will give you a very inefficient burn/heat. The yellow tipped flames are your even bigger concern though, if you allow it to run with the yellow tipped flames its going to get all sooted up, possibly even turning your clothes black if excessive. Its not a nice black either, when you get this soot on your hands it has to wear off, doesn't just wash off.

Also not sure where you live as far as altitude, but altitude does need to be taken into consideration as well if your above sea level. Most of these kits assume your at sea level. If you're more than a couple thousand feet above sea level you'll need to get a special oriface for high altitudes.

If you can post that link to the picture you're refering to I'll be able to tell you right away where your regulator is.

[DanielB1431]

Conversion parts arrived after first post, installed with no problem. I connected a full gas grill tank to the dryer with a new grill regulator for testing purposes. The dryer requires 11" water column, the grill regulator is supposed to be commonly 30 millibar = .435 PSI. 11" water = .397 PSI so there should be enough pressure. When start button is pushed, the dryer tumbles but does not fire up. The gas valve coils get a little warm as if they are energized. The igniter does not glow or make any noise and no gas is released from the valve even after a few minutes of the motor running. While cleaning dirty internals of the dryer, no wires were disconnected or mixed up. I read that the motor runs first, energizes the gas valve igniter control and then gas is released by the valve when the igniter is ready. This is not happening. Any suggestions? Components are pictured at:

Maytag LSG7800AAW Parts List

[AmpDraw]

I recieved an email that you responded to this post, but I don't see it here? Did you solve this problem and delete the post, or is my browser just not refreshing this post?

Originally Posted by DanielB1431

Conversion parts arrived after first post, installed with no problem. I connected a full gas grill tank to the dryer with a new grill regulator for testing purposes. The dryer requires 11" water column, the grill regulator is supposed to be commonly 30 millibar = .435 PSI. 11" water = .397 PSI so there should be enough pressure. When start button is pushed, the dryer tumbles but does not fire up. The gas valve coils get a little warm as if they are energized. The igniter does not glow or make any noise and no gas is released from the valve even after a few minutes of the motor running. While cleaning dirty internals of the dryer, no wires were disconnected or mixed up. I read that the motor runs first, energizes the gas valve igniter control and then gas is released by the valve when the igniter is ready. This is not happening. Any suggestions? Components are pictured at:

Maytag LSG7800AAW Parts List (Maytag LSG7800AAW Parts List

What all came in your kit? Was it just the #17 in the drawing oriface or was there a new regulator spring and cap? Per that diagram you should have recieved the new LP regulator and oriface both, as long as you installed that there is no need for the second external regulator you are using from the grill. Its usually a bad idea to try and run more than one regulator.

If that hot surface igniter isn't glowing then there should be nothing at your gas valve coils. I don't think you'll actually feel them get warm either, or maybe my own hands have just become that desensitized over time. Your cycle of operation presumption is correct though. The belt switch will prevent it from heating, it should be down by the tension pulley the belt loops around, if the belt is not applying tension to that pulley then this switch opens up and cuts out power to your heat circuit. In the drawing you provided...

"Motor"
http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/36583.gif

I think there is a mistake possibly, that #22 they are calling a buzzer I believe is actually supposed to be your belt switch.

As long as the belt switch is closed then you need to be getting power through the Hi Limit Thermostat #10 in this drawing...

http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/36673.gif

The Operating Thermostat which is #8 and the #12 Thermal Fuse in this drawing...

http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/36584.gif

When all of those are satisfied you should then get power to that #22 Hot Surface Igniter in this drawing...

http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/36673.gif

...and you will see it glowing bright, it will not make any noise at all.

This allows one of the coils on your gas valve to then open and at that time gas will come out and ignite. This is then sensed by your flame sensor which is #12 in that last drawing which then allows your other coil on that gas valve to open and at which time you'll recieve the full force flame. This flame will stay full like this till the operating thermostat becomes satisfied and opens. Power will set on one side of that thermostat till it cools down enough to refire everything and begin heating again.

Your most likely point of failure based on whats been going on and your saying its doing is possibly that ignitor (once you visually check that belt switch). This is where I would start checking at this point. Unplug that igniter and do a voltage check at the two wires coming from the dryer and plugging into those two wires on the igniter. There should be 120VAC present there, if there is and its not glowing that igniter is bad. Those things are extremely sensitive and break very easily, be very careful around it. Its also often not recommended to touch the heating portion of it with your bare fingers.

No power to that igniter then I'd look at that thermal fuse next. No matter what, you need to get that ignoter working before you'll get any gas out of the gas valve.

[DanielB1431]

The conversion kit I got is shown in drawing

Maytag LSG7800AAW Parts List)

as item #3 consisting of items 1 & 2. According to instructions provided, item 1 is a non-adjustable blocking plug that holds the regulator wide open. There is no spring involved and no adjustment, it gets screwed all the way in. That's why I put the gas grill regulator on.

I saw no belt switch at the motor base area. I removed the idler assembly and rebushed the wheel which was worn and very sloppy. The idler is the only thing contacting the belt in that area. I'll take another look there to make sure.

I'll check the igniter with a voltmeter to see what's happening there. I suspect you are right about it being bad. Will check thermal fuse also.

[DanielB1431]

I checked out dryer components with a voltmeter. With the dryer on and spinning, the thermal fuse has line voltage at both terminals, flame sensor has line voltage to one side, and there is line voltage to the igniter but it does not glow. It looks unbroken and even the glow element has line voltage. The element is normally dark gray but about a third of it is chalky white if that means anything. Also, its resistance is around 128 ohms which seems low for something that is supposed to glow. There is no belt switch. It is not shown on the electrical diagrams. The buzzer is mounted low on the motor bracket.

[AmpDraw]

There's your problem then, power to the igniter yet its not heating up at all clearly means you have a bad igniter. Be very careful when installing the new one, these igniters are very fragile.

[DanielB1431]

The old igniter was bad with a crack in the element visible when hot. The new one did not completly solve the problem and does not get hot when it should. If while running the dryer with the igniter not glowing I touch the dead side flame sensor wire to its hot side, the igniter now glows. If I reconnect the cold side wire quickly the gas comes on and ignites. There are wiring schematics / diagram present, but the colors on the diagram do not match those of the wires to the igniter. Wiring was not altered, original igniter plug is there and fits the new igniter as it should. Don't think it is a problem with the flame sensor since the igniter does not glow as it should to trigger the sensor to release gas. There is a good flame when it does burn, but it will not come on itself. Having a standoff so far.

[DanielB1431]

I'm wondering, should line voltage initially pass through the flame sensor and be present at both terminals at startup? Since it does not, could the flame sensor have a problem that is not allowing the igniter to glow? The igniter does glow when these wires are jumped.

[DanielB1431]

I put a new pair of coils on the gas valve, still does not fire up. It seems that the startup gas coil is not being activated, no igniter glow & no gas flow. Thermal fuse, cycling thermostat, and high limit thermostat all seem to be OK. If I jump the flame sensor, igniter glows and gas ignites. Will burn on low heat setting till temp is reached, shut off, but will not re-ignite.