Could not find any info using your Model Number, in any case I probably would not be able to find a wiring diagram so am using generalities. I would not bet the farm on these.
Your heating element seems OK as long as you removed one wire from it when measuring.
You have to measure across the heater, should be 240 volts when dryer is running, if you were trying to see if it is getting power. The heater does not use the ground/Neutral, it uses L1 to L2 voltage (Line 1 & Line2).
The 120 V reading may be useful for diagnostics. You will read the same voltage on both sides of the heater, the element is not drawing any current so it will not drop any voltage across it.
You did not say how the voltage was measured. Was dryer running?
Turn the timer to Off. Do you still have 120 V?
Turn dryer to Timed dry, do not start the dryer. Do you have the 120 V?
If the answers are No and Yes respectively, then I think the motor's centrifugal switch for the heater is not being closed when the motor comes up to speed.
Normally the timer contacts and thermostats switch in L1, L2 is switched in using the centrifugal switch. If the motor is full of lint clean it out, this may be stopping the switch from closing. It is worth a shot but is unlikely since your Run/Start centrifugal switch seems OK (motor runs normally).
To check it.
Unplug the unit, remove drum etc.
Remove the wires to the centrifugal switch. These are normally the two largest gauge wires, often they are red. If unsure do not do this.
Tape them up so they will not short to anything.
Tape the door switch closed
Plug the unit in and start the dryer
Measure the switch, it should be 0 ohms with the motor running.
If not, the switch is blown.
BE CAREFUL you are messing with 240 volts which can kill.
On older units this switch assy was replaceable but now if the switch goes the whole motor usually has to be replaced. Sometimes it is not worth putting that many dollars into a unit, depends on what shape it is in and if any other parts are worn and should be replaced. | 
