[750metro]

My wife thought she damaged the door switch so I replaced that before testing anything, but no luck (BTW, the old switch was OK).

I have a VOM and tested the thermal fuse, thermal cut-off, push-to-start switch, thermostats, and checked for 240V where the power cable connects to the control panel - everything seems OK. There was a lot of lint inside the cabinet around the motor, heater, etc. I removed the drum and cleaned up the lint. The belt was
OK. I couldn't get a positive test with the broken belt switch but when I bypassed it with a jumper, the dryer still wouldn't start.

Any ideas? I wasn't sure how to test the timer. The timer motor hums when I plug the dryer in and I turn the dial to the middle of a cycle.

[denman]

Did you test the thermal fuse on the blower assembly
It is the white one

Look it up on Partselect to ensure you got all the ones shown

Also did you remove one lead to any device you were measuring for continuity
Quite often you could read a low resistance but this is an alternate path through an inductive load

[750metro]

denman, thanks for the reminder to remove one lead before testing. I did that - I usually removed both leads if it's convenient.

I looked up the directions on this web site for testing the motor and the timer. Each of these has many leads going to the device, but for both, I measured the resistance across the terminals with the heaviest wires. For the timer, this was the yellow and red wires, and it showed little resistance. For the motor, there are two thicker red wires going to opposite sides of the switch on top. Measuring across these gave infinite resistance, so I think the motor is bad. From each of these to ground also gave infinite resistance.

Re: the broken belt switch, I finally got a good test because I could measure the hard to reach lead where it attaches to the motor switch rather than on the bb switch itself. The bb switch is OK because I get no resistance when I lift up on the idler pulley and infinite resistance when I drop the idler pulley (or vice versa).

I'm going to order a motor and new belt. I'll report back on the results. I'm also going to improve the exhaust ducting because of the build-up of lint in the cabinet. I think I'm lucky this happened before I had a fire in there.

[denman]

I do not have your schematic, Kenmore is a pain to try and find something on the web
But I would have thought the two largest wires going to the motor would be to the centrifugal switch which closes to supply power to the heater once the motor is up to speed. So the contacts would be open at rest.

Here is a pretty good site for appliances and they do have a section on Kenmore's
#13
Dryer Help Sections, repairing dryers, Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag, Inglis, GE, Frigidaire, White Westinghouse, Magic Chef, Norge, changing a 3 prong cord to a 4 prong cord, no heat, electric dryers, gas dryers, how to take apart my dryer, what can st

Could be the motor is shot but I doubt it is red/red that proves it
I had a good site on checking these motors but I have lost it
Some of the older motors had a manual overload reset, look for a small red button.
Others actually have both leads from the overload switch coming out to the motors terminal block

Hope this helps, I'll keep looking for that site