[egruss]

I replaced the 32 position switch (encoder) on the dryer, plugged it back in and now if I push the button to start drying it doesn't start, however the "dryer" light goes on for 5 seconds, then the cool down for 5 seconds, and finally complete. If I turn it to "off" and push the button the lights rotate around clockwise to drying and then reverse to (counter clockwise) to delicates, and clockwise back to drying endlessly.

Try to follow the tech sheet to get it into diagnostic mode but the first step is "rotate to off, and press button so all lights go out", this starts them cycling back and forth. I need to know what I need to do to get out of this mode, or any other ideas.

How I got to where I am:
While moving to a new houes, thoose helping me move broke the dial knob off. The dryer still worked fine by just pushing in the stub that was left and adjusting it with some needle nose pliers. Got tired of that and tried to superglue the knob back on, instead the superglue froze the 32 position switch from turning

[denman]

Here is a link that should help, I hope
Maytag Service Library

First thing I would do is disconnect then reconnect the connectors. Check them for any bent pins etc.

[egruss]

Thanks, didn't seem to help. Looks like I need to get an ohm-meter out and test the components before blaming the board?

Just wish it would tell me what the cycling lights mean

[kayakcrzy]

the first thing I want you to do is check your breaker. Flip it off, and flip in on, and see if it works. If not unplug the dryer, and take the control panel back cover off, and make sure you did not unplug, anything in the process of changing out the Timer. If everything looks good there, there is only two other things that would shut the whole dryer down. The first would be the door switch, and the second would be the thermal fuse, which is located on the heating element housing. If you need any further instruction, I could be reached at my website at ApplianceEducator.com Tom

[egruss]

Ok flipping the breaker or unplugging didn't work.

Door switch, if I press it in light goes off. Close the door and light goes off, I assume that means it is good?

Is there a way to test that powe is going down to the motor / heater from the controlboard?

To test the fuse will you be able to "see" if it is blown like a normal fuse? Not really looking forward to completelly disassembling the dryer :P

Thanks Again!

[kayakcrzy]

In your response you did not tell me you checked the thermal Fuse. Take the front off the dryer, and in the back left hand corner on the bottom is the heater housing. There are two components sitting on the element housing. One of them the brackets sits up off the housing, that is the thermal fuse. It will shut the whole product down. Some times with a meter when you check it, it checks to be good when it is not. Take the 2 wires off of it, and put them together, and then put tape around it, and turn the dryer on. I replace alot of thermal fuses on that product. Do not get enamered with the board, and the motor. Do this, and let me know what you find. Of course you will do all this with the dryer unplugged. Tom ApplianceEducator.com

[egruss]

I taped the connectors for the thermal fues together and still no go. Grey pair of wires.

[kayakcrzy]

At this time, you really need a meter, for One main reason, if you do not have the proper power coming to the dryer, and you buy a new one, it is not going to work either. We must establish that there is 240 volts coming to that dryer, before you buy a new one. If you need me to tell you how to do that, it is no problem. You can either reach me on my web site or here. Tom ApplianceEducator.com

[egruss]

Got a new controlboard and put it in and presto, dryer fixed.

I must of fubared it when removing it to replace the 32 position switch.

Thanks for all the help. I was able to clean the lint out good since I had it all opened up.