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Dryer will only buzz - not start

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"Have been drying clothes fine. Pressed timer for next load and dryer will not start. ..."


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Dryer will only buzz - not start
Old 04-09-2008, 11:13 PM   #1
lastkop
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Unhappy Dryer will only buzz - not start
Brand: Kenmore
Model Number: 110 92832100
Age: 1 - 4 years

Have been drying clothes fine. Pressed timer for next load and dryer will not start. When the start button is pressed, a loud buzz noise comes from the upper left corner and I have to press pause to get the buzz to stop. The light in the dryer goes off when the door is shut. The drum will turn one direction by hand. The electrical breaker was half tripped when I checked it but when it is turned off and back on, the dryer still will only buzz and not start. What could this be and can I fix it myself? Sears wants $199 to look at it - fix it - and one year warrantee but not until next week. Help!
 
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Old 04-10-2008, 12:00 AM   #2
AmpDraw
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Is the loud buzz noise the end of cycle buzzer, or is this a different noise? Sounds like the timer may have gone bad, possibly, not confirming that, not even safe to assume. Circuit half tripped I assume you mean this is a 240 Volt electric dryer and both breakers were found in the half way position. Breakers in the half way position mean something drew excess current and tripped them, breakers all the way over mean someone turned them off.

The buzz noise you hear may be normal, this could just be the timer running, you don't normally hear it because the drive motor and turning drum are too loud when its working. It could be a broken belt and the buzzing you're talking about could be the motor turning but with the broken belt the drum doesn't move.

As far as fixing it yourself it depends on your abilities and what tools you have, you'll need the basics like a screw driver and pliers, but more importantly you're going to need a voltage meter.

As far as paying $199 to come out and just look at it, ehhh, it's a tough call there, myself, I wouldn't. $199 but then you have to consider what parts it may need, sounds like a timer or a motor maybe, that could add another $100 to that bill. Brand new, or used dryers are cheaper than that, so how old is the dryer and how much did you pay for it new?

Dryers are about the absolute simplest things to trouble shoot and repair, but you would need at least some limited abilities to do so. If it were me, I'd stat by switching that breaker to the full off position, then back on just to be sure it reset fully. If this is an electric dryer you may be losing one side of power at the breaker, reset it to be sure. If its a gas dryer forget the breaker, if the light comes on and you hear noise you have power to it.

Unplug it from the wall before taking things apart, don't trust that you have the right breaker turned off, just unplug it. Plug it back in only long enough to do your tests, unplug it again as soon as your done. It likely won't kill you getting shocked as most people think, but it doesn't feel pleasant either.

Next step would be to remove the front of the dryer, being aware that the drum is held up in the front by the door area, so its going to drop when you pull the front off. Sounds like the belt isn't broke or you likely would of noticed while spinning it, but take a good look at the belt. CAREFULLY draw a picture on paper of how the belt is routed. Most people run into the most trouble just trying to figure out how to get the belt back on. Around the drum is obvious, but there is a tension pulley down by the motor, this is the routing area you want to pay the most attention to and the toughest part to get back together unless you've done several of them.

Pop the belt off, if you still have the door switch wires connected to the door close the door and try to run it, look in there at the motor and see if its turning or not. If it isn't you'll need to test for power at the motor, if its getting power but not turning then you need a new motor, if it is getting power and turning with the belt off then most likely the bearings are bad on the dryer and the drum is just binding up enough that the motor can't start, thus tripping the breaker and causing a hum noise.

No power to the motor then it sounds more like a possible bad timer, I'll assume the door switch is ok based on what you've said, and the start switch is ok since you do get a hum out of it.

Vacuum all that lint out of the bottom area before you put that part back together, keep your eye out for money, when I use to work on residential appliances I'd often find anywhere from $3-$5 just in loose change inside dryers.

Now you'll need to go into the top of it, most Kenmore's are made by Whirlpool and have a plastic strip on each far side of the control panel, carefully pop those off and you'll see a phillips head screw on each side going from the control panel side down into the top of the dryer, unscrew those, the front bottom of the control panel flips up and back. Plug it in, shut the door, set the timer, hit start, is this buzzing nose coming from the timer? Is the timer timing down? There's a little silver metal motor on the timer, its about as big around as a half dollar and maybe 3/4 inch thick, if you touch it is it hot?

If it sounds like you can do all of this yourself you'll likely be able to fix it and save yourself $200 plus, if not, consider just buying a new dryer. Unless this was a very expensive and fairly new dryer its not worth even $150 in total repair cost.

If you think you can do the above (very simplified directions) its likely worth repairing yourself, even if it needs a new timer or motor. It might not even need that much, but you'll know more once you open it up and have a meter capable fo doing electrical testing on it with.
 
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Old 04-10-2008, 12:32 AM   #3
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Thank-you for the detailed reply. This noise is a different noise, a loud obnoxious buzz, which even dims the room light. The end of cycle noise is a beep beep beep. It is a gas dryer, about four years old, front load HE3 style. I tried, with the door open but the door button pushed in, to turn the drum manually and press the start button. First it did the same buzz and I released the door button, next time it made no noise but the dryer did not start but then the buzz started again. It sounds like it is coming from behind the top left corner of the control panel. It only happens when I try to start the dryer, but the dryer will not start. When I select which method of drying, then press the start button, usually the dryer would click - begin to turn and dry but now just a little longer then when the click would happen the loud buzz begins and I then press pause to make it stop since it sounds like something is shorting out. The Sears $199 repair is to diagnose - parts - labor and one year warrantee on the parts, so if it is the motor it looks like it would be a good thing but if it is only the belt or a switch, not so good. They want $65 just to look at it or the $199 which repairs whatever it may be. What a gamble - but they still cannot get here until next week. I will have my husband read your email and maybe we can fix it before then. Maybe the additional detail in this email will give you a better idea of where we should start.
 
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Old 04-10-2008, 01:39 AM   #4
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I just looked at a parts breakdown on this model, it looks like its all solid state electronic, no mechanical timer, so the only thing in it that makes noise is the motor, particularly the only thing that would cause the lights to dim while trying to run.

New motor about $126 just for the part, 1-4 year old electronic control dryer and $199 doesn't sound like a bad idea. Clothes line or Laundromat for the next week, not so much fun. Have your husband look at the parts breakdown in your owners manual and he'll see where the motor is located, its over on the left side, so that makes it even more likely this is what you're hearing.

If he's comfortable opening it up I'd even check and see if you maybe have some lint stuck in the start switch on the motor itself thats keeping it from engaging. This will be a little piece around the motor shaft by where the wires plug in on the motor itself. If its been stuck in the running position then you'll get a hum, no run and dimmed lights. Tough to explain even though its a simple thing, if he looks at the motor though the problem may be obvious, i.e. a lot of lint stuck in it.

You can disregard what I said about flipping the control panel up now that I see your break down, that won't apply to you since your control panel just looks like it runs along the front face of the dryer. I'd further say its a safe bet you're getting power to the motor, so at this point I'd check it like I said in this reply to see if you can find lint or something plugging up the centrifugal switch on the motor itself. Make sure its unplugged from the wall.

The way that switch on the motor works is it allows power to the start windings of the motor, once the motor begins spinning centrifugal force causes it to pull away and disengage the start windings. If yours is stuck in the disengaged position its going to do this, or if that switch is bad it will do this. I don't see an option to order just the centrifugal unfortunately, looks like you have to buy the entire motor as one piece. If I was there looking at it I'd clean any lint away from it, maybe hit it with a little WD40 spin the motor by hand and with a screw driver force that centrifugal switch in and out a couple times. Good chance it will take off and run fine after this without replacing anything.
 
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Old 04-10-2008, 03:03 PM   #5
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I know I read somewhere yesterday, in the hundreds of dryer repair tips, of how to remove the front of the Kenmore/Whirlpool HE3 dryer and get to the motor, but I cannot find it now and it does not say in the owners manual. Do you know where I can find that info or how to do that?
 
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Old 04-10-2008, 05:15 PM   #6
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Unfortuneately I've been working on only commercial appliances for the past 5 years and can't tell you for sure how to get into this model, its just been too long ago for me and I never worked on a lot of this model back when I was a residential tech. In the parts breakdown it looks like the front bottom panel may come off, but I'd look into that option with caution as sometimes Whirlpool (the actual manufacturer of this) can make their diagrams a little misleading.

partselect.com doesn't seem to have a parts breakdown of this for you to even look at on their web site, searspartsdirect.com does have one though for model number 110.92832100

KENMORE | Model #11092832100 | DRYER | SearsPartsDirect.com from Sears

http://content.searspartsdirect.com/...2122-00002.png

I do see screws at the top of that bottom panel, but can't tell if these are accessable from the outside front or not, I'd guess they aren't or you would see them and not need to ask. I wish I could tell you for sure, its possible you may have to remove the screws from the rear holding the top in place, slide the top forward and remove then work your way down from the top to get the front panels off.

http://content.searspartsdirect.com/...2122-00001.png

There's a whole lot going on in this dryer just to make hot air and tumble clothes, I know these and the front load washers are not very do it yourself friendly. Have you tried to contact another company besides sears to see if someone else has people who have worked on these and can get out to you sooner. This dryer is worth repairing by all means. WHen you call another company though I'd be certain to confirm they do have a tech who has actually worked on one of these and not someone thats going to come out and just guess and swap parts till they can get it working. Such a person could cost you a l lot of money in parts for stuff you didn't need, though the problem described seems rather obvious.
 
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