[ALSTAY]

The dryer will blow air, not hot however. The vent in the back is clean and not obstructed with lint. The dryer works fine, but no heat.

[awiblish]

It is probably your thermostat or thermal cut-off switch, although it could be the heater element. To check this simply remove the back of the dryer. Unplug it first. Use a mulitimeter to test continuity on the thermal cut-off, the thermostat, and the heater element. Both the thermal cut-of and the thermostat should have little or no ohms reading and should be a closed circuit. The heater element may have between 20-60 ohms but should have no more than that. Should also be closed. If any of those devices are open there is your problem. Just replace.

[Tricanuck]

My heater elements are measuring 10 ohms in circuit. Is this too low?? The dryer starts, I can feel the heat and then then I can hear the cutoff thermostat click and the heat stops.

I have completly cleaned the dryer lint, even removing the drum. The cycling thermostat is closed. I had a spare timer. I changed the cutoff thermostat assuming it was cutting out too early.

Is it possible that the elements are worn out/thin? The dryer is probably 20 years old.

[kayakcrzy]

ALSTAY, here is wha I want you to do. I want you to pull the dryer away from the wall about 3 feet, and take the vent hose off at the wall. Leave it connected to the dryer. If mama has a panty hose around, put in on the end that would normally go in the wall. That is so no lint will go in the house. If you don't have one, no big deal. Put a load in and dry it. If it works, the outside vent is clogged. You cannot imagine, how much money I try to save people, when they tell me the dryer is not heating enough, and I tell them the vent is clogged, and they say its fine, and when I get there its not coming out fast enough. Try this, you can reach me on my web site, at ApplianceEducator.com Tom

[awiblish]

The clogged vent seems pretty probable to me to. If that doesnt work though. It sounds like something electrical. 10 ohms should be about right. Usualy before the thermostat there is a thermal cut-off which is basicly just a circuit breaker that would be my next check.

[kayakcrzy]

Awiblish, If the thermal fuse was bad, the whole unit would be dead. Tha thermal fuse is definetly not the problem, because the product is running. OK! The heater is coming on, and the click he here's is the thermostat cutting off and on, because there is not enough air movement accross the coil. Lets not send this nice fellow, on a wild goose chase. I've been doing this for 30 years, and that is running calls, not sitting in the office. Tom ApplianceEducator.com If you ever need help with diagnosing a product visit my web site, and I will help you out. Tom

[Tricanuck]

Originally Posted by kayakcrzy

The heater is coming on, and the click he here's is the thermostat cutting off and on, because there is not enough air movement accross the coil. Tom ApplianceEducator.com If you ever need help with diagnosing a product visit my web site, and I will help you out. Tom

This was a great help. I found a little bit of lint built up at my exterior vent. I also found much more lint in the back side of the drum built up in the holes near the heating elements where the heat was to come into the drum. I had to remove the drum to find this build up. How did so much lint get in this area? Probably years of drying and poor air flow from other lint obstructions??

Another post was also helpful in suggesting putting a thermometer in the exhaust and measuring this temperature. After cleaning everything up my dryer is cycling on and off between 145 and 130 degrees F. I had no idea intially that this type of electric dryer was even supposed to cycle on/off as normal operation. It always helps to understand how something works before troubleshooting.

[Tricanuck]

Originally Posted by kayakcrzy

The heater is coming on, and the click he here's is the thermostat cutting off and on, because there is not enough air movement accross the coil. Tom ApplianceEducator.com If you ever need help with diagnosing a product visit my web site, and I will help you out. Tom

This was a great help. I found a little bit of lint built up at my exterior vent. I also found much more lint in the back side of the drum built up in the holes near the heating elements where the heat was to come into the drum. I had to remove the drum to find this build up. How did so much lint get in this area? Probably years of drying and poor air flow from other lint obstructions??

Another post was also helpful in suggesting putting a thermometer in the exhaust and measuring this temperature. After cleaning everything up my dryer is cycling on and off between 145 and 130 degrees F. I had no idea intially that this type of electric dryer was even supposed to cycle on/off as normal operation. It always helps to understand how something works before troubleshooting.

[Tricanuck]

This was a great help. I found a little bit of lint built up at my exterior vent. I also found much more lint in the back side of the drum built up in the holes near the heating elements where the heat was to come into the drum. I had to remove the drum to find this build up. How did so much lint get in this area? Probably years of drying and poor air flow from other lint obstructions??

Another post was also helpful in suggesting putting a thermometer in the exhaust and measuring this temperature. After cleaning everything up my dryer is cycling on and off between 145 and 130 degrees F. I had no idea intially that this type of electric dryer was even supposed to cycle on/off as normal operation. It always helps to understand how something works before troubleshooting.

[kayakcrzy]

I think you just about have it. I would replace the cycling thermostat. You should get 155 degrees on a time dry cycle. Make sure your thermostat is calibrated. To calibrate a thermostat, just put some ice in a cup, and the temp should read 32 degrees. If not make the adjustment, and check the temp again. Tom ApplianceEducator.com