[RAINJ]

The Dryer Would Not Heat Checked The Element And It Ohm Out Good. Install Old Element And It Would Not Work. Remove Wires From Terminals On Element And Checked Voltage And Found 220v Across The Two Wires. I Replaced The Element Suspecting That When The Element Heated Up And Expanded It Was Causing The Coil To Open. I Installed The New Element And The Unit Still Would Not Heat. I Checked Across The Wire From The Time/control Had 110v And The Wire Coming From The Wiring Harness Under The Drum And Had 120v. Across Both Wires I Have The Needed 220v Volts, But The Heater Will Not Heat And When I Go Across The Two Wires On The Element I Only Read 120v. What Am I Doing Or Missing?

[kayakcrzy]

Real simple my good man. If you look up on top of the housing, where you installed the element, you will see a part the size of nickel, with two wires coming to it. That is the thermal fuse. That is your problem. If you want to check it, put your meter on ohms, and pull the wires off of it, and you should get continuity if it is good. But, you probably won't. The part # is 279816. It comes with the high limit thermostat. If you need me, you can get me at my web site at T. PAONE's APPLIANCE SALES & SERVICE GUIDE Tom

[denman]

The first thing you are doing wrong is starting every word with a capital letter.
Does not make for easy reading

You seem to be going in circles when it comes to troubleshooting
First you say you had 240 V across the winding, you replace it then you have 120 V

Are you sure you are measuring directly across the heater coils
If you have 240 or even 120 Volts across the coils and the coils measure good for resistance then they must heat up. Anything else is impossible unless the dryer has a current limiter and I have never seen such a thing in a dryer.

Unplug dryer
Unplug wires going to the element
Measure the element for resistance use the 1X scale
Should measure between 8 to 15 ohms

[kayakcrzy]

RainJ, follow my advice and my knowledge will set you free. Tom