[joedogg]

Okay, guys. Dryer started doing this about 2 weeks ago. It would turn on, run and within a few minutes shut off promptly. It would restart then promptly die again. After enough stops it wouldn't restart until enough time had passed. I figured the motor was switching off due to thermal overload so I replaced the motor. I bought a brand new in box motor. I put it in today and tried the dryer again. The problems has not changed at all, in any way!

What else could be causing this??

Thanks!

[PS Staff - Sheila]

Does it do this in every cycle or just one?

Here is a link to your dryer model tedx640jq0.

[joedogg]

Originally Posted by PS Staff - Sheila

Does it do this in every cycle or just one?

Here is a link to your dryer model tedx640jq0.

It is constant. It'll run for about 5 minutes then shut off. It'll restart for about 30 seconds, then 10 seconds, then 5, then 2, then not at all. It cools down for a while and will restart again. The longer you give it to cool down the longer it'll run again. Never for more than 5 minutes tho.

It does this on all settings with or without heat.

Thanks!

[joedogg]

It does it every single time I turn on the dryer. I'll start it from a cold state and it will run for about 5 minutes and shut off. Starting it immediately leads to about 1-2 minutes of operation, then 30 seconds, then 5 seconds, and then nothing.

If it cools down it'll restart again, and it runs longer for longer cool-downs. Never more than 5 minutes though. It also does this on all cycles with or without heating on.

[bettyboop]

DOES THE TOP OF THE DRYER GET REAL HOT? DISCONNECT VENT HOSE, AND SEE HOW LONG IT RUNS, IF YOUR VENT IN THE WALL GOES UP THE WALL AND EXITS THE ROOF IT AND THE LINT CHUTE IS PLUGGED WITH LINT. IF YOUR VENT GOES THRU THE WALL RIGHT OUTSIDE, AND IS CLEAN ALL THEY OUT, STILL REMOVE & CLEAN THE LINT CHUTE WITH GARDEN HOSE AND DRY AND REINSTALL.
P.S. IF THE 2 FOAM GASKETS ON THE LINT CHUTE ARE BAD AND CRUMBLY. GO TO HOME DEPOT AND THEY SELL A ROLL OF WEATHER 3/S ths" WIDE X 1/8ths THICK. FOR UNDER 3$ AND A ROLL OF FOAM WEATHER STRIP 1/2" THICK X 1/2" WIDE FOR ALSO 3$ THEY ARE AN ALMOST EXACT REPLACEMENT FOR THE ORIGINALS.
BETTYBOOP

[joedogg]

No the top seems just fine. Nothing actually seems to be getting unusually hot. The motor feels a bit hot to the touch, but I find it hard to believe that this is abnormal.

The vent does go out the wall directly to the right and the dryer is in a laundry closet that is connected to our porch so running it without the hose connected is a very real possibility. I will try it, but I'm hesitant to say that this is the answer, since before this happened the clothes all dried fine within a very reasonable amount of time, leading me to believe that the exhaust is clear.

All parts of the dryer are absolutely free of lint right now, as when replacing the motor I had to remove all of the parts taht would have accumulated lint and I cleaned it all out. (The entire lint chute was removed and cleaned in my shower.) The only part I didnt clear out was the hose and external connection. I will try to run it without the hose and let you guys know how it goes.

Any other ideas? I know there are a few parts that deal with thermal stuff, thermostats and some sort of thermal fuse. Is there a way to test these parts? Can I disconnect some of them and either leave disconnected or short the connection to see if they are the problem?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by bettyboop

DOES THE TOP OF THE DRYER GET REAL HOT? DISCONNECT VENT HOSE, AND SEE HOW LONG IT RUNS, IF YOUR VENT IN THE WALL GOES UP THE WALL AND EXITS THE ROOF IT AND THE LINT CHUTE IS PLUGGED WITH LINT. IF YOUR VENT GOES THRU THE WALL RIGHT OUTSIDE, AND IS CLEAN ALL THEY OUT, STILL REMOVE & CLEAN THE LINT CHUTE WITH GARDEN HOSE AND DRY AND REINSTALL.
P.S. IF THE 2 FOAM GASKETS ON THE LINT CHUTE ARE BAD AND CRUMBLY. GO TO HOME DEPOT AND THEY SELL A ROLL OF WEATHER 3/S ths" WIDE X 1/8ths THICK. FOR UNDER 3$ AND A ROLL OF FOAM WEATHER STRIP 1/2" THICK X 1/2" WIDE FOR ALSO 3$ THEY ARE AN ALMOST EXACT REPLACEMENT FOR THE ORIGINALS.
BETTYBOOP

[bettyboop]

Try This, As I Can't Think Of Anything Else. If I Was There I Could Try More Things. But One Thing You Can Do Easy. Remove The Timer, Remove The The 2 Screws That Hold The Timer Together. Gently Open The Timer.
Look At All The Contacts, Your Looking For A Badly Chared Set Of Contacs. They All Can Show A Certain Amount Of Burning, But The Culpret Will Be Fried Pretty Bad. If It Looks Pretty Sound Put Timer Back Together. Also Are You Showing 230+ Volts At Your Terminal Block On Back Of Dryer? If So Check It While Running Also. Let Me Know Bettyboop

[joedogg]

Originally Posted by bettyboop

Try This, As I Can't Think Of Anything Else. If I Was There I Could Try More Things. But One Thing You Can Do Easy. Remove The Timer, Remove The The 2 Screws That Hold The Timer Together. Gently Open The Timer.
Look At All The Contacts, Your Looking For A Badly Chared Set Of Contacs. They All Can Show A Certain Amount Of Burning, But The Culpret Will Be Fried Pretty Bad. If It Looks Pretty Sound Put Timer Back Together. Also Are You Showing 230+ Volts At Your Terminal Block On Back Of Dryer? If So Check It While Running Also. Let Me Know Bettyboop

I looked at the back of the timer where everything connects. Everything looks very clean. I tried running it while disconnected, same problem. I also tried to short out the thermal fuse and then the thermostat. Each time it works exactly the same.

Do you mean actually open up the timer?

Also how do I check for 230? Can I hook that up to a regular multimeter? I dont want to blow the thing out.

[PS Volunteer - Appguy]

Check schematic suppied with dryer. Monitor the voltage to the motor usually pins 4& 5. If 230 volts you probably have a shorted timer. Pull timer apart and check for burnt contacts.

[joedogg]

Originally Posted by PS Volunteer - Appguy

Check schematic suppied with dryer. Monitor the voltage to the motor usually pins 4& 5. If 230 volts you probably have a shorted timer. Pull timer apart and check for burnt contacts.

Okay looks like removing the timer is the first step. I'll pull it off tonight and see what I see. Can I check pins 4 and 5 with a standard digital multimeter or will that blow it out?