[JDillon]

Working on Whirlpool dryer. Runs but no heat.

240 VAC verified, all components on the heater element unit are good. Found bad thermistor near blower motor. Replaced device. Re-assembled unit. Still no heat and new thermistor is now blown too. Now what??

Thanks,
JDillon

[denman]

Cannot find any info on this Model Number
Are you sure it is correct?

[JDillon]

Ooops - That was the S/N !

Model # is GEW9250PW0

Also found the diagnostics manual in the kick panel. Ran those tests and it showed both of the thermistors as good ( ~10.6K ohms). No error codes either. After checking several items (based on the diagnostics tests) it now seems to point to the Machine Control Electronics.... Ouch $$$. Any other thoughts? Not sure if any subcomponents on the board can be replaced.

Thanks again,
JDillon

[denman]

Here is a link to a GEW9200 is probably fairly close to yours and may be of some help
Free Appliance Repair Forum - Downloads

If you are sure all the heater components are good then all that is left is the heater control board and the motors centrifugal switch

Boards are replaced as a module by manufacturers
I know there is a couple places that will recondition boards but do not know what they charge
Since your thermistor blew it sounds like the boards electronics are messed up and not just the relay

Do not know how old your dryer is but the GEW9200 says the board is covered for two years (labor extra). You may want to check the warranty.

[JDillon]

Replaced board, still no heat..... The only thing left is the centrifugal switch. Have power to one side of the switch 120VAC from the electronics board side and 240 at the terminal block. Can the centrifuge switch be replaced or does the entire motor assembly have to be swapped out?? Thanks for your help.

[denman]

I looked at a couple sites and could not find the switches as a separate part

You may want to take a good look at how the switches are mounted
Perhaps they have moved a little and the heater switch is no longer being activated. You may be able to activate it manually to check it for resistance.
Also check the centrifugal mechanism to see if there is anything obvious with it.

Before purchasing a motor I would short the two wires that attach to the switch and give that a try. Just to confirm it actually is the switch. it is a little risky but if they will come off and you can tape them together so nothing shorts should be safe. I do not think the unit will overheat in the time it takes the blower to come up to speed.

As you say all that is left is the switch, but there is also the unlikely possibility that you have a broken wire.