[wendel]

Dryer runs but does not heat up. All vents are clear of possible lint or debris. Any help possible would be great as cannot afford repair man rates and I am quite mechanical.

[denman]

Cannot find any info on this unit. Are you sure the Model Number is correct?
Is it gas or electric?

If gas. Take a look at "Tumbles only" by FatOldBiker different make but same problem

[wendel]

I have a type as well
CWSR-ELE-2306024-FM54

[denman]

Sorry I cannot find any info on this unit

[wendel]

how can i tell if the thermal fuse is blown without a tester?

[denman]

If you do not have a wiring diagram open up the control module, it is a favorite hiding place for manufacturers

Without any info I am doing some guessing
The following is for an electric dryer
Most units have three thermal cutouts

One is a fuse so if it blows it has to be replaced. Normally this also cuts power to the motor.

The second is a high limit self resetting thermostat. Just affects the heater.

The third is a cycling thermostat it usually has its own internal heater in conjunction with the dryers heater, it regulates the heat output. Internal heater works when on low heat. This one has 4 wires, 2 for the contacts and 2 for the heater (black and white are usually the heater). Make sure you do not short out the internal heater

Unplug the dryer
Remove the wires from the thermal cutout
Tape them together so you have contact and to prevent them from shorting to the frame and give it a try
Never run like this for any length of time but is OK for a quick check

[wendel]

OK no break on heating coils, checked thermal fuse and even with it out heat does not come on, whats next that it could be?

[denman]

Without a wiring diagram it is difficult
Here is a link that should help
GE, Hotpoint dryers, Moffat, McClary dryers, how to take aparat information, no heat problems, how to change the belt, how the belt is suppose to look like

Dryers usually have three thermostats in total
Heater also gets power through one set of timer contacts, set of contacts on the motor centrifugal switches and the temp switch if there is one

Have you turned your breaker off/on a couple times. Sometimes one half of the breaker can blow without actually flipping the breaker. If you only have 120 V instead of 240 V to the dryer the motor will run but you will not get any heat.

If you do not have a wiring diagram, check in the control module, they like to hide it there.

If you want to troubleshoot this I suggest you purchase a volt/ohm meter. You can get a decent one for under $20.00. Try to get one with leads a couple feet long.
If it saves you buying one unnecessary part it has paid for itself.