[jabramson]

Thanks in advance for helping me.

This dryer has 3 cycles, high heat automatic, medium heat automatic and timer no heat.

When on automatic cycles, the dryer turns on and heats up but the timer doesn't move and keeps running until I manually shut off the dryer. The timer, no heat cycle when set for say 10 minutes, will run for 10 minutes and shutoff.

What makes the timer move to shut off on the automatic cycles? Is there a sensor for humidity or something that is not functioning correctly to tell the timer how dry the items are so it will move the timer and shut it off?

Again thank you for your help.

[eric shubert]

the timer only moves on the auto cycle when the dryer gets hot enough the go off on the thermostat. it sounds like the dryer is not venting to good. even on the time dry the dryer is most likey taking longer to dry

[jabramson]

Can you tell me which thermostat is involved on the automatic cycles? There are several thermostats on this dryer.

[JPG]

I agree u must replace the thermostats, not sure which one just buy the 2 stats u wont need to buy the overload stat......

[jabramson]

According to the website there are 5 thermostats for this model and I don't want to have to replace all of them. 2 in the cabinet and 3 on the heater assembly. Do I just need to replace the 2 in the cabinet since the other 3 are the high and low temp and possibly overload?

Appliance dclr333et0ww

[JPG]

well Im not sure which ones u need exactly but if u look at the wire diagram the wire coming off the thermostat will go directly to the timer motor..or just follow the wires to the timer, sorry cant b more specific. jpg

[jabramson]

I opened up the dryer last night and checked out a few things. First, there was a lot of lint. It seemed due to the felt or whatever it it called that the dryer drum rests on by the door was not secure. So I fixed that and cleaned up a lot of lint.

Then I checked the resistor up by the timer which according to the wiring diagram should be around 3.7k ohms and I got 4.5K ohms on the reading. So I don't think the resisitor is really bad.

Next I checked for continuity across the thermostats and when cool, all had a 0 ohm reading. I didn't disconnect the wires on them which would have given me a more true reading but I suspect I was looking for an infinite reading to show they were bad more than anything else.

There are 5 Thermostats in this dryer. To high and two low limit and a safety. One set of high/low is on the heater pan for air temp inlet and one set near the blower for outlet reading.

These resistors are all different part numbers and around $15 to $20 each and I would prefer not to buy all 4 if possible.

I checked the wiring diagram and it is no help considering three of them have a wire directly feeding back to a leg on the timer.

I didn't check the temps yet in the dryer because I currently don't have anything to check with. I do know the back of the dryer gets hot enough on high that I can't hold my hand on it very long. Not enough to singe but hot enough to be uncofortable.

I scanned in electrical diagram if that can help. I can read it but I still can't tell even with the cam diagram which thermostat if any could be the issue.

[denman]

Sorry cannot read your schematic, the resolution is too low
Of the 3 thermostats on the heater assy the center one looks to be a non-resettable over temp.
So if it trips you have to buy a new one, therefore do not use the below to check it.
If you checked them using an ohmmeter set at a high scale you probably will always get a 0 ohms, you will be reading an alternate path.
Best to set the meter to the lowest scale 1X. Better yet disconnect one side and take your readings.
Here is a quick and dirty way to check the 4 self resetting thermostats if you have a soldering gun. A gun is better than an iron (more heat)
Make sure the tip is clean, measure the resistance, hold the gun tip on the metal face of the thermostat, you should hear it trip after awhile, measure the resistance. It should change state. It should then reset after some time.
If they check out OK using the above, your problem is probably somewhere else.
My experience has been that these thermostats either work or do not. Have never had one change its thermal trip points.

good luck

[jabramson]

Not sure why the schematics shrunk so much when attached.

Anyway, thanx for the advice on heating up the thermostat to see when it opens. I will try that this weekend.