[solyxius]

Although the washer runs thru an entire cycle the water doesn't heat and there is no drying taking place. Either a faulty element or controller. Question is how does one access the 'hidden element' to test continuity? Also looking for a service manual.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

Can you please verify your model number as I can't locate it on our database?

[solyxius]

Hi Sheila,
It's known as Dishlex here in Australia now owned by Electrolux. You may know it as either of these models - Westinghouse 925, 915 & 907 models & Simpson 890 & 870 models. Service manuals for any of these would give me an insight into the major components and circuit diagram of my Dishlex in particualr how to get to the element for continuity testing.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

I found an Electrolux dishwasher breakdown.

I have never seen one but it look as if the piece under the door is on a hinge of some kind
and once you remove this it will expose screws to the access panel.

Here is a link to the dishwasher.

[solyxius]

Hi There.

I found your post on this Appliance Repair forum and have exactly the same problem with my dishwasher.

I checked out the EDW5505EPS diagram that someone has supplied but Im still not sure that it holds the answer.

How did you end up repairing your dishwasher?

Where did you find the element to test the circuit?

Thanks in advance.

boony

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Hi boony,

I've not yet repaired the dishwasher but have done much research. If your in Australia check for an eBay store called Allfix Electrical. They are by far the cheapest for replacement parts (approx 40-50% cheaper than the service agents).

From all accounts my problem is most likely to be a faulty controller so I'm going to order one ($75 refurbished - apparently better than new because the faulty components have been replaced with better quality than the original ones) and see how that goes. If need be I'll then change the element however I still haven't found instructions on how to get to it. If the controller doesn't work out then I'll take the machine out to the garage and put it on the workbench and remove the top and sides (one piece shell) and you should then be able to see where the element slides out the back.

Good luck and let me know how you go!
solly

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Hi solly

Thanks for that information. It has proven invaluable.
As of tonight, my dishwasher is back in operation.

I found Allfix on ebay as you suggested and he pretty much gave me the same advice as you did with respect to the faulty controller and told me the info about the reconditioned units he sells.

I removed the controller from my dishwasher and being a curious person, I opened it up to see what was really in there and to see if I could notice any problems. (It’s very simple to open – just 4 plastic clips holding it together)

What I found was that one of the solder joints for a relay on the circuit board was burnt and the solder was no longer intact.

I decided to resolder the joint to see if this fixed the fault and surprise surprise, the dishwasher now heats water again. Now I still don’t know if the relay is faulty as the problem may re-occur and if it does, then I will purchase the reco unit from allfix but I figured I had nothing to lose in attempting the repair and see what happens.

I will keep you updated if my problem returns.

Cheers
boony
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G'day boony,

Guess what - my dishwasher is also now working again! Like you said it was only really a 10 minute job to fix it and to think I could have done this 7 months ago when the thing stopped working and not had to manually wash that many months worth of dishes!

After I read your last message I went to it and by the time I read this one it was fixed. It was exactly the same as yours, one of the 4 pins holding the controller chip box had blown the solder off the joint (not sure how that happens). On mine as you look at from the soldered side it was the bottom left joint. As you say though perhaps that box will also go eventually. We could probably buy a replacement but I have a feeling that it holds the firmware so a new one would need to be flashed somehow (S/W version is on the sticker on the controller).

Anyway we are both back in business with no help from the internet forums other than putting us in touch with each other and us working things out for ourselves! Shows how useful the internet can be!

Let me know if you have further issues and I will do the same.

Cheers and thanks again,
solly

[AussieLand]

Same thing is happening with my dishwasher, but I have the Electrolux, Dishlex - DX302WB. The water is not heating and there is no drying at the end of the cycle. I wonder if its the same problem?

How do I get to the controller?

Thanks.

~John

[AussieLand]

Don't answer that, LOL. I just pulled it apart and found exactly the same thing. The solder/track was burnt off the relay, so I am soldering a wire back on again.

OK. All fixed. I soldered a piece of wire in place of the burnt track and viola!!! It works!

Here are the instructions on how to pull the controller board out and repair it.

DO THIS FIRST!!!
*Remove the plug from the power socket!
*Remove the inlet hose from the tap.
*Remove the outlet hose from the sink pipe

1/ Open the door of the Dishwasher and remove the six screws at the top of the inside of the door that hold the front control panel in place, being careful to support the panel with one hand, so it doesn't hang from the last of the screws. See pics below.

http://angelmansyndrome.org/download...B/IMG_4134.jpg
Remove the 2 screws above.
http://angelmansyndrome.org/download...B/IMG_4137.jpg
Remove the 2 outer screws above (not the ones either side of the latch slot)
http://angelmansyndrome.org/download...B/IMG_4136.jpg
Remove the 2 screws above.

2/ Close the door whilst supporting the CP with one hand and tilt the top of the control panel forward and slide it up and out.

3/ Carefully let the CP hang from it's own wires. See pics below.

http://angelmansyndrome.org/download...B/IMG_4129.jpg

4/ Remove the controller from the CP by carefully flexing the 4 plastic lugs inwards. See pics below.

http://angelmansyndrome.org/download...B/IMG_4130.jpg
I found it easier to lever the 2 lugs first that are on the wire side (top of pic) of the controller and then slide the controller sideways to remove it from the bottom lugs of the CP.

http://angelmansyndrome.org/download...B/IMG_4132.jpg
Bottom lugs at either side of of the controller near bottom of pic.

http://angelmansyndrome.org/download...B/IMG_4131.jpg
Close up of left bottom lug.

http://angelmansyndrome.org/download...B/IMG_4127.jpg
Controller after removal from the CP.

5/ After removing the controller from the CP, locate the 4 lugs (2 on each side) that hold it closed and flex the lugs carefully with a screwdriver so they are released from the matching part. Once you have done this, the controller should open up and hinge on one side.

http://angelmansyndrome.org/download...B/IMG_4119.jpg
Controller after it has been opened.

6/ Carefully remove all the plugs on the front of the controller. You will have to pry the front edge of the plastic case to slide them off.


Controller after the plugs have been removed.

5/ Carefully lever the front edge (where the plugs were removed) of the circuit board up and slide it forward.

6/ Locate the relay and flip the circuit board over.


Relay on circuit board.

7/ Inspect the bottom of the board where the relay is and see if it has a burnt track. See below.


Burnt track under relay.

8/ If there is no burnt out track, then this is not your problem. You will have to search these forums for another cause of the water heater failure or somehow obtain a service manual to locate the water heater to test.

9/ Clean the circuit board where the track is burnt with a tooth brush or the like.

10/ Prepare a copper wire and tin with solder. Solder this between the pin (that is now not contacting the circuit on the bottom of the relay) and the track that it was originally soldered onto.


Copper wire soldered between relay pin and track.

11/ Replace the circuit board, by sliding it back into the back of the case under the plastic lugs and pushing the front (where the plugs were located) of the board down.

http://angelmansyndrome.org/download...B/IMG_4125.jpg
Circuit board has been put back into place.

12/ Attach all of the plugs to the front of the board again and ensure that they are pushed fully forward and clip under the front edge of the case.

http://angelmansyndrome.org/download...B/IMG_4126.jpg
Plugs attached to circuit board.

13/ Close the controller case again and push the controller back into it's plasic lugs on the CP, ensuring that
the multiple light lens gismo, is place into the holes on the inside of the CP before closing the case.

http://angelmansyndrome.org/download...B/IMG_4138.jpg
Multiple light lens gismo.

http://angelmansyndrome.org/download...B/IMG_4129.jpg

14/ Place the CP back into the top of the door tilting it forward at the top. Locate the lug on the bottom of the CP and align it into the slot on the bottom of the CP cutout on the door. Push the top of the CP forward until it clips into place.

15/ Screw the CP in with the 6 screws on the underside of the door.

That's it! Your all done. Don't forget to reconnect the outlet hose to the sink pipe, the inlet hose to the tap and plug the power cord into the socket before turning the dishwasher on again.


~John

[Mate]

Thankyou for the instructions - interesting I had the "exact" same problem.

[damians]

thanks guys. exact same problem here on my 403 model as well. fixed in 20min. took longer to test. i think the fan was not also working, and is now.

Funny thing is my wife "rinses" the dishes (i call it washing) before putting it in the dish washer. so it was probably a couple of months since it has been not working. now i have a good arguement case for her to not "rinse" them before hand!

[pmolsen]

The heater element is inline in the thick hose that runs up the back of the machine from the side of the plastic sump under the dishwasher It is the part between the sump and the hose. Part number 0122400012. Costs around $45 from Electrolux Australia. But check the relay contacts first.