[Eggy]

About 10-15 seconds after starting the wash portion of the cycle the motor stops running. It re-starts again after a couple of minutes (usually 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 minutes), but again runs only for 10-15 seconds.

This happens for the 'normal' cycle, and for 'low energy' cycle.

The motor seems quite warm -- almost too hot to touch (uncomfortable, to say the least!).

I found some sign of leakage (wet areas, with just a few drops of water, but also corrosion -- seems the small leaks have been there for some time). One area with a small amount of corrosion was the electrical connector for the motor. I cleaned it up a bit, but the original problem remains.

Is it possible that the corroded connector is causing the motor (or circuitry?) to overheat and shut-off? Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Pete

Whirlpool DU920PFQG2

[PS Staff - Sheila]

The pump seal is likely leaking and has cause the bearing in the motor to start to seize up.

This will cause the motor to over heat and cut out.

The bearing in the motor can not be replace as the motor is a sealed unit.

You can replace the pump seal and the motor.

Here is a link to your dishwasher model DU920PFGQ2.

[Eggy]

Sheila,

Thanks! That's a big help. Unfortunately it's probably also the kiss-of-death for my dishwasher. I'm thinking it will cost $200-$300 to fix (motor & seal, by qualified technician who will be better than I at fixing the leak!). For $400-500 I can get a new washer.

Can you give me any ideas on how to confirm the bearing as the source of the problem? -- any way to temporarily override the over-heat cut-out?

BTW, the motor works fine for 'drain' cycles (IE - it runs for several minutes without cutting-out). But during the 'wash' cycle it will run for only 5-10 seconds, then stop. Wouldn't a failing bearing affect both cycles?

Thanks Again!
Eggy

Originally Posted by PS Staff - Sheila

The pump seal is likely leaking and has cause the bearing in the motor to start to seize up.

This will cause the motor to over heat and cut out.

The bearing in the motor can not be replace as the motor is a sealed unit.

You can replace the pump seal and the motor.

Here is a link to your dishwasher model DU920PFGQ2.

[PS Staff - Sheila]

The cut out is inside the motor and is not something you can bypass even if you could the winding in the motor would just burn up.

When the motor is running in the wash cycle does it sound maybe like it is jammed?

Does it drain the water in the drain cycle?

If it does maybe there is something in the pump that is jamming it in the wash direction.

The motor turns clock wise to wash and counter clock wise to drain.

Take the pump apart and see if there any thing in the pump. You may get luck and find that all you have to replace is the seal.

[Eggy]

Thanks for the ideas. I'll pop-open the pump and look for blockage.

Regarding your questions...

"When the motor is running in the wash cycle does it sound maybe like it is jammed?" -- Not that I can tell. All sounds normal.

"Does it drain the water in the drain cycle?" -- Yes, it drains as normal.

Thanks Again
Eggy

[denman]

I would double check the corroded motor connection for any indication of overheating.
A bad connection would drop the voltage to the wash winding and cause the motor to overheat but I would expect to see some overheating at the connection.


You may want to measure the voltage at the motor during wash.

[Eggy]

denman,

Thanks. I wondered about that too. Since I wrote my initial post I had a chance to check this further. There were some dark spots on the connector, like you might see in a case of overheat or arcing), but when I looked closer I decided it was something else -- some kind of stain or corrosion residue or something (I was able to clean-off the dark material). The actual contacts within the connector are pretty clean, and the plastic connector housing shows no sign of overheating (melting or discoloration).

Once I open-up the pump I can check this further. With the motor disconnected from the pump, if it acts in the same way (runs for a few seconds, then cuts-out), then I'll look for some electrical fault as cause of overheat & cut-out.

If you have other ideas or suggestions please let me now.

Thanks,
Eggy

[Eggy]

Thanks all for your help and suggestions. I hired an appliance repair expert - he found that, during wash cycle only, water was leaking from the pump onto the motor. The water was causing arcing in the motor, which caused overheat and cut-out.

To do a proper repair would require replacing the motor and pump, at cost of about $275 (parts & labor) -- too expensive to make it worthwhile.

I might 'experiment' a bit to buy some time, with attempt to patch the leak.

Any suggestions for caulk or adhesive that would suit this need (considering water and high heat)?

Thanks,
Eggy

[denman]

I would try automotive sealant that they use on the block gaskets etc.
I think you can get it in a high temp silicone.
You just want to be sure that you do not need temperatures as high as an engine developes to set the sealant.