[oswear]

Your thoughts and help with this would be greatly appreciated.

I started my dishwasher about a week ago and it filled with water then stopped. It did not advance through the cycles and their is no sound at all coming from it. I checked and there is power coming to it.

So I took the cover off of the door to check the door latch, I noticed after reading the posts that this was a common problem. When the door is closed, measuring from the white lead to ground there is a reading of 122.9 volts and from the black lead to ground it reads 15.1. With the door open the white lead from the switch to ground reads 4V and from the black lead to ground I get a reading of 00.3v. Not knowing much about dishwashers I don't know the significance of this, but I don't get anything measuring across the black and white leads with the door open or closed.

Again, any help as to which way I need to go from here would be greatly appreciated and your direction followed.

Many Thanks
os

[denman]

Hopefully you have the wiring diagram. It may be in a plastic bag taped to the back of the kick plate or on the tub
Sorry do not have a schematic for this unit so the below is a generalization

Does the timer run with the door closed. Put it in the middle of a wash cycle. If it runs then your switches are OK.

If not
Door switches usually break both sides of the line
Best way to check is to remove power to the unit (throw the breaker)
Remove one of the switch wires. Measure the resistance across the switch.
Should be zero ohms when actuated. Reconnect and then do the other switch
The weird voltages you see are just ghost readings. Only valid ones are0 and 120 V.
Could use voltage to check but it can be unreliable

Perhaps someone has info specific to this dishwasher

[oswear]

I tried to find a picture of the door switch (Latch Assy) so that I could include it here, but could not find one showing a view of the terminals. This switch has 4 contact points 2 white and 2 black (wires). I may be wrong, but I am taking it there are two switchs combined in this part?

I ran an OHM check from the white to black (parallel and diagonally) terminals after removing the opposing white or black wire and all readings came back w/an infinite reading. These readings were both while the door was opened and closed. So is it fair to say that the switch is gone?

Also the timer is not progressing (even after sitting for over 20 mins).

Thanks Again
os

[denman]

Normally there are two switches
You are switching both sides of the line
So one switch is white to white (neutral)
The other switch is black to black (hot)

[oswear]

Thanks for Responding (again). So would it be safe to go ahead and order this latch assembly or am I missing something else? (Sorry for being a pain, my wife has her dishpan hands wrapped around my neck :-) )

[denman]

Remove power from the dishwasher

OK One switch is between the white wires.
Remove one of the white wires from the switch. The only reason you remove one wire is to be sure you do not get a reading from a parallel circuit
Measure for ohms across the switch
It should be infinite (open)
Activate the switch while measuring it
It should go to 0 ohms (closed)
If it does the switch itself is OK
Reconnect the white wire and do the black side

The same applies for the switch on the black side

If both switches are OK and the door lock actuates both of them when in the locked position this part is not your problem.

Here is a link to your dishwasher model FDB750RCC1.

[oswear]

Thanks for the education. I did the checks as you asked and the switch checked out, showing open when the door was open and 0 ohms when the door was closed. Does it mean that the timer could be shot and if so is there any way to test this? Where would I go from here?

Thanks
os

[denman]

Yes it could be the timer
Usually the circuit to get power to the timer motor is fairly simple
Just trace it back to see what is required to complete the circuit to it
I do not have a schematic
On my GE washer there is one set of timer contacts which supplies power to everything in the dishwasher. They are closed everywhere except at OFF
Yours may be the same
If so just do an continuity check across them
Also try manually setting it to different positions to see if at some place you get power to something
I hate putting parts/money into a unit unless I am fairly sure that it is the culprit

Good Luck

[oswear]

Many thanks for the time and assistance from both myself and my wife. Yeah, when I was a lot younger I was willing to go through the trial and error parts selection thing....man it really stunk. (And I do mean, I am trying to be socially responsible with that statement) LOL. I found the schematic at the Fridgidaire website and I will follow it to try to figure out what is going on and let you know if I am sucessful.
Again many thanks and if I do have to order a timer I will be ordering it from here and if you aren't a owner/partner you need to tell them that I said you should be getting a commission for putting up w/characters like me. Can you believe that I have worked with electricity since the 7th grade and have a year and a half of electronics education in college.....So much for edu-macation. But that switch thing really threw me (with them being "ganged" like that). The schematic only shows 2 contact points and I would have really been lost w/o your help.