[jakepallgin]

Hi - I have a Kitchen Aid dishwasher that has a leaking float assembly. The leak is not coming from the gasket/seal on the standpipe, but rather water is traveling down the inside of the standpipe. The leak only occurs during certain times of the wash cycle (rinse), and the water does not seem to be too high in the tub - it does not reach the top of the heating element. When I look at the switch during operation, the stem of the float seems to be bobbing up and down on the switch - as it does this, water drips down the float stem on the inside of the standpipe.

So the question is, what needs to be replaced - the float? the switch? or should I be looking at something else - like what is causing the float to bob up and down during the rinse cycle. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you. Jake

[PS Staff - Sheila]

Check the vent assembly.

The vent is on the opposite side of the dishwasher than the float.

If it is plugged up it will cause the water to move causing the float to bob.

Here is a link to your dishwasher model kudi230b0.

[jakepallgin]

Hi - I continue to have a leak problem from the float standpipe (the inside of the standpipe not at the seal). After replacing the float, float switch, and both washer arms (top and bottom), and checking the vent assembly, I now think that the water level might be too high. During both the wash and rinse cycles, water fills up to about an inch in the tub - and covers the bottom of the float by about a quarter of an inch. Is this too much water??? I experimented with the water level, and if I fill the tub to just the bottom of the float, I don't seem to have a leak problem.

Do you think that I need to replace the timer? I'm not sure this will fix the water fill problem - it happens on both wash and rinse cycles - but I've kind of run out of ideas on how to fix the problem. Thanks for your help. Jake

[PS Staff - Sheila]

I would not replace the timer until you check the contacts.

Dishwashers are time filled.

The length of time is determine by a cam and a set of contacts.

On the timer there is a cover that can be remove so you can inspect the contacts.

If the contacts are welded together then replace the timer.

If the contacts look fine the timer is not your problem.

Next check your water pressure.

Water pressure is what closes the fill valve when the electrical connection broken.

[jakepallgin]

Thanks for your reply. I will check the timer contacts this evening. Regarding checking water pressure, can you provides more details? In general, our apartment has excellent water pressure throughout. But how do I check the pressure of the of the inlet valve? And are you suggesting i need to replace the valve or make some sort of adjustment? Thanks again, Jake

[PS Staff - Sheila]

If the water pressure is good in the building this is not likely to be an issue.

Is the water over the heating element?

[jakepallgin]

Hi - the heating element is attached to the base of the tub in 2 places and rises up about an inch or so over the tub floor. The water level fills to cover the heating element where is it attached to the tub, but does not reach the top of the heating element (it fills to a level closer to the tub floor/base of the heating element. At the filled level, however, the water is about 1/4 inch above the base of the float. It's difficult to describe or determine if the water level is ok or not. Thanks, Jake

[bslack007]

Did you ever find the cause (and solution) for this problem? I have the same model doing the same thing. I had already replace the tube, float and gasket when I stumbled across this site.

Did you ever figure out what caused it?

Brian

[denman]

Did you get your parts from this site?
Do not know if this will help but here goes

Here is the link to the same thing on this site
Whirlpool KUDI230B0 Parts List

The squares on both sites say they are one inch squares
The tube on site 1 looks 1 inch high
The tube on this site looks 2 inches high

Also the floats look different
Looks like the design has changed

Other things to check would be:
1. Is the dishwasher level. If not installed correctly it could be leaning toward the front
2. Is it pumping out correctly.

Hope this helps

[jakepallgin]

never did figure out the problem. my initial solution was to jam a shim up the float channel to stop the leak - this worked up until a few days ago. my latest solution is that i removed the float, duct taped close the float channel and taped the shut off switch so it stays "on." of course, this has some risks, but hopefully it will hold up until i get a new dishwasher sometime this year. jake