[mcimcit1]

Dishwasher has a lot of water at bottom, motor goes on, and dial goes through cycle but no water drains - - I removed air gap and disposal connection and placed in a bucket.

I presume water isn't being used as it would overflow.

[denman]

Will need a Model Number

[mcimcit1]

the model is Hotpoint HDA2000G02BB

[denman]

Here is a link to your parts
GE HDA2000G02BB Parts List

I assume this is an old installation and this problem just started happening.
You have checked your drain so you can reattach it. Note it must have a loop which is at least 6 inches above the disposal inlet.
Remove the kick panel
You will see a solenoid (Item 497 in the Motor Pump Mechanism)
This solenoid regulates whether the pump washes or drains
Try activating it manually to see if your unit drains

If it does then all you have to do is figure out why it does not activate automatically during a cycle

[mcimcit1]

Thank-you for the info!

How do I activate the solenoid manually?

Also, this problem is 10 miles away from this computer, so would it be possible to have a couple more steps or things to look for or ck out?

[denman]

You should be able to move this up and down manually
Hold it down (may be up, I am not sure) then start a cycle if it pumps out, you know the flapper is OK

If it does not activate or return during a cycle
Make sure the springs are on it
If you have a volt/ohm meter you can check it for continuity of the solenoid coil, remove one wire and measure it for resistance.
Here is some info on checking it
Dishwasher Repair Guide - Check dishwasher drain valve and solenoid

If it is OK for resistance, while in a drain cycle check to see if it is getting voltage.

Could also remove the sump cover and clean it out
Just take note of how the inner filter (Item 508) goes in
If you put it in the wrong way you can eat it up with the chopper wire

Your washer is fairly simple, which is a good thing
Water is pulled in through the sump
The solenoid is connected to a flapper valve in the housing
This valve either directs the water up to the spray arms or out the drain
When pump out finishes the water in the drain runs back into the washer.
This ensures that there is always water in the sump to keep seals wet and prevent overheating at start up.

If this solenoid operates and you still do not have pump out and no pressure develops in the drain tube, then the flapper valve is probably broken. And you are now back at the start of this page

Good Luck

[mcimcit1]

Your explanation is a little (a lot) over my head. I will go there tomorrow and try and do as you have said. As I understand it, I will move the solenoid up and down - - does that mean there is an obvious part that moves? Also, in checking if the spring is on it - - will I see the spring out in the open? I have a volt/ohm/amp meter, but it is not only my first such meter - - I purchased it last week and have not used it yet - - perhaps you could add to the instructions - - with each of the test you suggest (ohm and voltage), what am I connecting the meter leads to on both the meter and the solenoid, and do I disconnect any leads before testing?

[denman]

Just make copies of what I have sent and the emails then you will have hard copy with you. Once you take the kick plate off it will become obvious.

Now for a short electrical course
Amps is the amount of electrons flowing through a wire. Like water in a hose.
Volts is the amount of force pushing the electrons. Like water pump pressure.
Ohms is the resistance of the wire to the passage of electrons. Like pumping through a small hose as compared to a large hose, you get more flow with the larger hose.

Is your meter digital (digital readout) or analogue
Never measure resistance (ohms) with the power on. It can blow your meter.
So to measure the solenoid for resistance remove the wires from it, put you meter leads on the solenoid's connectors and measure the resistance. If it is infinite it means the coil in the solenoid is open, therefore cannot conduct electricity, therefore cannot pull the solenoid's plunger down.

Here is a link which may help
Electrical testing tips

[mcimcit1]

The teacher gets an A+. The Solenoid up/down center cylinder is crooked and in a fixed position because the plastic around it has melted against it.

Would there be anything beside a solenoid that I should order? What would cause this? It seams to me that instead of not pumping out and not pumping in, the stuck solenoid would do one or the other.

[denman]

Here is the link to the unit
GE HDA2000G02BB Parts List

If you look at Item 493 in the Motor Pump section looks like it comes with the bracket, a new lever and the solenoid rod. Should not need anything else

I would not worry too much about the melting, it is not uncommon. It lasted more than 10 years, so by the time the new one melts you will probably need a new dishwasher.

I may have missed something here.
I thought the only problem was it would not pump out but that it was washing the dishes. IS THIS CORRECT?

If you mean by does not pump in that it will not fill with water it could be the float switch has been activated. On the left hand side toward the front there is a little tower. Inside this tower is a float. At a certain water level the float rises. Now if you look under the washer you will see that it operates a switch. This switch kills power to the water inlet valve. It is a safety device so that the washer cannot overfill. It would not hurt to remove the cover and clean inside and the float. Over time crud builds up inside and can cause it to stick up or down.

To check the unit manually actuate the solenoid
Or better yet take it off and actuate the flapper valve
Note make yourself a little drawing so you know how it goes back together
It should wash in one position and pump out in the other
You will have to hold it in position and then shut the door
It is fairly hard to move once the motor starts, so is easier to do it with the motor off
If it pumps out and pumps into the spray arms all you need is the solenoid

After you install the solenoid with the motor off manually try it just to be sure the plunger is not binding in the solenoid. You may have to adjust it slightly.