Sorry for the delay in the update of the fan replacement on the LG.
...I was the bonehead that DRILLED up from the bottom of the unit while it was running; that's why when I looked to see if I would hit anything..I did not see the fan turning at the speed of light
and hit the fan w/the bit, and the plastic fan decided to explode.
...I had planned on taking some pics of the repair, charged the camera..then forgot, duh.
FAN REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE FOR LG LWHD 1200R:
(Follow the manual directions for fan replacement, this manual actually has it right!)
PS: I am going to try and write this to alert you to a gremlin or two you may encounter even following the excellent directions in the manual you folks so kindly steered me to; and from the prespective of someone that knows NOTHING about AC units.
FAN COST: Close to $50. Time to instal even w/my one mistake, 40 min total from start to finish (easy!) and the unit was running quietly and great.
1) Remove the front panel.
2) Pull the "guts" out, esaier if you set a sturdy table the same height as the unit, and just slide internals out onto the table, I did.
3) On top in the center you will find a 4" X 6" stamped steel bracket connected the fan shroud. Remove the 4 screws, and bracket.
4) I believe there is a combined total of only 9 philips screws holding the fan shroud and bracket.
5) Remove the screws holding the shroud to the evaporator coil, screws located at each end of coil.
6) I had already removed the hub of the fan when I did the drilling (
) hub and parts of two blades was all that was left.
7) Once all the screws are removed, lift the shroud out.
8) Lift the evap. coil UP and OUT...the end of the coil NOT connected to the copper tubing!
9) The coil will actually move up/out enough to give you more working room than what you think; but it is still a tight work space and be CAREFUL of the copper.
10) Now you have the shroud off and out...and the evap. coil moved out of the way.
11) For those that are old enough to remember, the clamp holding the fan hub to the shaft is similar to the old clamps found on the water hoses on an older truck/car.
Old type "squeeze" clamp, but not round stock, flat steel and stout!
12) SMALL pliers of any type accomplish the removal and installation of this clamp.
13) Remove the clamp, and old fan. NOTE: The shaft does NOT go all the way thru the hub. Since it took 10 days to get the new fan and I had removed the hub when I pulled this stupid stunt, I had forgotten this and the manual will not mention this fact. It will break the hub if you try and push the shaft completely thru. There is a "stop" inside the hub.
14) The hub may take a little tap w/ a small rubber mallet to remove. My unit was just a yr. old and I had to tap it off the shaft this way.
15) The shaft has a flat side so, the fan will only go on one way,.
16) READ the manual carefully, I read it SEVERAL times and MISSED this next part, easy to do!
17) Install the fan shroud FIRST!! I didn't (
) The fan itself is about a 3/4"
LARGER than the opening for it in the shroud...not noticable just looking at the opening in the shroud and the fan w/o measuring; which I did after I fiddled w/trying to get the shroud over the installed fan for 5 min. So, I removed the new fan, duh. No need to try and change the Laws of physics.
18) Once the shroud is in place and the evap. coil is still moverd, push the new fan onto the shaft. I used a couple of drops of Moly gun oil (slicker than owl poop) on the shaft to facilitate the new fan going onto the shaft, as it is tight.
19) Now install the squeeze clamp onto the fan hub. IF you find this too difficult as it is a tight area to work and the clamp is STRONG; find a Gates clamp (auto parts house) that is the appropriate size w/ the slots in the entire strap on the Gates (so you can tighten down to a very small size); find one that has the hex head too, not just the slotted screw to tighten it as you can't get a screwdriver of any size in there! With the hex head, a small crescent wrench, etc. can be used to tighten the clamp. The Gates clamp is PLENTY strong enogh to hold the fan on if you go this route, trust me.
29) Gently move the evap. coil back into it's place. Now when you spin the fan to check for clearance of the shroud, don't worry when you find it does NOT clear and rubs the inside of the shroud when you spin the fan! It will.....
30) Install all the screws back in the shroud, EASY as they are short and feel as if they will strip easily. I used my drill w/a philips bit to remove the screws but used a hand screwdriver to install them.
31) Now put the flat brace back...you notice it PULLS the shroud forward, this should give the fan the clearance it needs to spin free. Be SURE and spin the fan to make sure it does clear the shroud, after the brace is installed, it should.
Now just slide the internals back into the frame, install the front...and turn that puppy on and be cool once again.
What started this adventure was the fact I walked by the unit outside while it was running and heard that "sloshing water" sound. Well, with the OLD window units there was a good size drain hole that every once in awhile would get stopped up w/a leaf or something and that "sloshing" would be the sound made as water collected in the unit. So, I decided to "fixed" it!..and I sure did......
I found out AFTER I drilled the new "drain hole" that the new units don't actually have/need a drain hole, they have a small depression to allow any extra water to drain and that IS adequate. The fan actually has a ring connecting the fan blades around it's outer edge; this ring "dips" into any water in the bottom of the unit and throws it up onto the evap. coil, making it more effiecient. Anyway, the point is, there is NO problem w/some water collecting in the bottom of the new units so if you hear that sloshing sound, DON'T drill a drain hole as it does not need it.
Thanks to all that helped here! $50 bucks was a lot better than $300 to replace a year old unit. Best! Semper Fi!..
LG/LWHD1200R Fan Replacement/UPDATE 
